Monday, December 13, 2010

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Normal Red Needle (RIGL). Review and sketches.

The history of climbing in the small mallets massif Fils starts just one year after the important victory of Ram. Peiro Francisco, who was precisely one of the conquerors of Ram and at the same time I had opened the road that bears his name at the top of Fire, is also involved with Á. Seron and T. Sami in the conquest of the summit of Peña Don Justo on April 3, 1947. With this escalation, begins a hectic schedule of "firsts" in the small mesh, solid and mesh of the Fils de Aguero, whose achievements are almost synchronous, in fact, the same Seron, with whom Miller and Laguens is 10 days after Don Justo achieve Peña Peña gets Aguero Sola.

not have to wait long to record another "first" in the same year, 1947. On 3 May a large group of the Youth Front climbers scale the small mall gets Chichin, in just a long string, with this modest conquest that the climbers claim " great for beginners" is achieved the first summit of the small mallets, followed three weeks later by the more classical and repeatedly climbing the mesh size: the Normal Red Needle.

It is curious that the text in a matter of place names, I would transcribe the writings of full Fau Francisco in those days. The exact transcription are also crossed out the original text:

" Day 1 June. We left the cave to Carasol climb the "Pepper" believing that between the tip of the left (which we named "Son") was a bridge like the one between the "Pepper" and "Beet " Red needle "(the middle and right respectively) but we were up and the" bridge "that did not appear, so we are left with the desire to do the" Pepper ", but after all the" Son "is a first ascent, so we're not so upset.

(...) Day 4 June. We headed back to the "Beet " Red Spire "as it has dawned with sunshine but" may be storm, "he said, predicting that they were not wrong [illegible] on top could barely stand due to strong wind.
started climbing at 10:30 crowning the top at 1 without further incidents that have dropped the hammer and the mailbox to get a chimney that is near the top. After making a huge box of rocks and put a flag in the colors of Seron and [illegible] the role of firms in my handkerchief and a shoe climbing boots began the descent, 2 pm, arriving at the ground at 3.30. "
Gómez Laguna Old names and Red Needle
not long before the cordate to repeat this climb. Further rolling-out the mess of the place name has been, with the Pure, the mall of the three names (see entry on toponymy Red Needle), the mountaineers roped Guide of the Youth Front of Zaragoza who made the second repeat on 5 June 1947 he wrote in the logbook: "We wanted to call Peña" Aragon ", but we botanists ahead," referring to the name originally assigned to the beet. Referring to botanists makes me think that replacing the name of Beet Red Needle is after 1947 and that Francis Fau piada had not yet been corrected in the record book. In any case and as a curiosity, it would have been a unique case and grotesque of the existence of a mall that have been attributed to four names.

As another historical document, the October 14, 1951 a young Alberto Rabada register by signing his first climbing Riglos, which is supposed to be the 6th ascent of the red needle in the book of pious, taking advantage of that rise to leave the mailbox could not leave the first climbers, although two years later Virgili Antonio Fernando Cantero and warn that they have not found the mailbox. I can not resist not to link the post I published Gregorio Villarig on his first ascent of the Red Needle in which they had not a single nail. Indeed, it is curious that as the opening, also had problems with their hammers in climbing.
3rd
along the Red Needle Normal
Climbing the Red Needle, originally was made up to the stone bridge by the dihedral-fire west much easier, although longer and today virtually unequipped. The Red Needle Normal has become a great classic introduction to climbing riglera, ideal as a first contact with the bowling.

Factsheet:
approach: from parking of small mallets, along with the raft, take the road to San Roman (GR-1) that goes to the mountains of the Fils. The track in good condition has no vehicular traffic allowed from the raft.
When we are placed at the level between the mall and the Needle Red Cored, we will look at a trail that starts up and is usually indicated with a milestone stones. From there, with care not to stray to the Cored, surrounded by the left (west) Red Needle and got deep in the canal between the Red Needle Gómez Laguna, passing under the stone bridge joining both. On the landing which is the saddle between the two mallets, start climbing.

Largo 1: For the dihedral formed between the wall and Gómez Laguna rock bridge, building up walls or alternatively both the rift between the two to put us over the bridge of rock. Steps something athletic that we can catch cold if you are not very used to this escalation. Cross the stone bridge and the wall of the Needle Red, we find the meeting. V, 20 meters.
Abseiling in the Red Needle
Largo 2: Climb on easy ground at a slight diagonal to the left until the first plate, something away. Continue in the same direction until you reach a crack (so far can be reached directly from the ground by a variant) and when we closed roof a small step, cut off sharply to the right to a ledge where the second meeting. IV +, 20 meters.

Largo 3: This is to continue until the end of the clear dihedral dominating the meeting. Intersessional Meeting of abseiling that should not be mounted. Continue to the top of the dihedral forming entosta. Meeting in tow. IV +, 35 meters.

Largo 4 : Easy to clear and lying terrain to the summit. Meeting in tow. IV, 20 meters.

Descent:
the normal way, riding the abseil at all meetings except the first one made in the rock bridge, which is not mandatory as in 35 meters you will reach the ground from the second meeting.

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