Makingdirt Bike Track Cake

Gómez Laguna (RIGL): review and sketches

Tribute to Luis Gómez Laguna 20oct1957

The Gómez Laguna, which I'm not sure whether to call it mall, needle or monolith, as he called the first-climbers can be framed within mallos forgotten. Opportunist infamous for the tribute official place name that the city of Riglos offered Luis Gómez Laguna when he reached the mayor of Zaragoza this needle, which seems to view profile leans back in the presence of the Red Needle, has not returned to live abundance climber who once roamed its walls. It is curious that, although his approach is exactly the same as for Normal archivisitada Red Needle , cordate few dare to attempt the climb. The lack of data on this mall, something that unfortunately has become indispensable in our day, and the terrible appearance from the north side of the Red Needle unjustly condemned to ostracism in the climbing community.

The early years of climbing in Laguna Gomez, who until his first ascent was known as "pepper" was a concatenation of "firsts" favored for its abundance of easy ledges, which allowed some freedom When choosing the route, and its easy access on the north face from the Son. Thus, in the 10 years following the conquest, are up to 7 variants (and variants of variants) to access the top of which, interestingly, only goes a long, ie, all the roads of this mall converge into one final shot.

The rock bridge

First ascent of the monolith "Gomez Laguna
Mountaineers of Aragon. Riglos 6-October-1947

escalation was started at 9 am with good weather but stormy air.
His ascension begins with a stack of about 20m. high. Then by means of a double rope saves a completely vertical wall of about 12m. up to a ledge very [illegible] where you have to make a horizontal step (right) where you take a fireplace that leads to another landing. Since then returned to take the wall for the party is faced with the "Red Spire" and continuing to the summit at which we arrived at 6'30 pm, starting the descent at 7 after leaving the box below large stone found at the top, making the shelf shelf tensioners and quite dark ending down at 9 pm.
is 1 st ascent of monolith "Gomez Laguna dedicate:
Serono Goyita Angel Monje
Antonio to Miss Anson. María de las Nieves Sánchez Ubide
Francisco Fau Campmany the nice, pretty little Marie Riglos Asún

Normal Way. Factsheet:
Largo 1: Climb the rock bridge that connects the lagoon with Needle Gomez Red from the west channel, a kind of lying dihedral becomes not fire, climbing very easy but unequipped, except for a couple of rock bridges. Meeting in two very old chisels on top of the wall Gómez Laguna, and over the rock bridge. III +, 25 meters . A common way to reach the rock bridge is to use the Direct Input which is the same route as is currently done for Normal Red Needle.
First

long Gómez Laguna

Length 2 : Nice wall equipped with nails and parabolts (6a / Ae) which leaves us in an easy and long cornice goes to his right to the end, and on the east side, where we met with two dishes (plates without ring). 6a/Ae, 30 meters . So far, at times it could go the other variant which came directly from the ground, but the decomposition of the rock and the large amount of vegetation found at the base today, it does recommend the climb.
long

3rd Intersessional Meeting of the Normal

Largo 3: Trace the dihedral forming entosta wall with the right to place ourselves above this entosta, where there is a meeting of two old chisels that will not ride. We continued along the wall above the old meeting with a trend toward the left, until you reach a juniper that leads into another big ledge. A few meters to the left of the juniper, again on the south side, expansive meeting of two fish. IV +, 35 meters .
Largo 4: Walking on the ledge to the left, down a small step with juniper where we find a modern meeting (abseiling facility) that will not ride, but will continue a few meters to the western spur, where there another meeting with two dishes and an old nail. III, 15 meters . While managing the touch of the strings, you can bind the long 3 and 4.
Largo 5 : Nice long, vertical, air and maintained in which we again appear Paraboles between the nails. Meeting in tow. V, 20 meters .
From here we still climb top helping a couple of meters of fixed rope.

Descent: Since the last meeting, making a 20 meter rappel the south face up to the installation of the last ledge. From here, with 60 meter rope will get very tight to the ground although it is more advisable to try to reach the rock bridge with easy and do a rappel pendulum more to take away from the vertical and avoiding the dangerous rocks that'll throw to collect strings. --------------------------------------

Abseiling

of Gómez Laguna

The following ascents did not follow the original itinerary. The second climb was held on April 5, 1950 by Victor Carrillo, who die within days in the Puro , Angel Serón again and Julio Hernando. On the new road the piada do not provide any explanatory information, just simply say " the ascent was made by a different site than the first time " - perhaps in the south from what was later called " abortion "? - and it explains the problems they had in the fall to keep the ropes and be hooked required to downclimbing from the rock bridge to the ground to return the next day to collect the material left.

Something similar happens with the way Directísimo (I'll call direct 1954 to distinguish it from other entries and variants) Montaner, Rabada Orobitg and the March 19, 1954 and that was the third ascent . The short piada says " roped mountaineers of Aragon. Ascension made with rain and strong wind and cold. The climb took us 9 hours and falling almost as many. "



Way direct 1954. Factsheet:
Largo 1: Climb the rock bridge that connects the lagoon with Needle Gomez Red by interfacial this, coinciding with the usual route to ascend to the Normal of the Red Needle. When placed above the stone bridge, continue along the wall that dominates and is equipped with nails and parabolts (6a / Ae) which leaves us in an easy and long ledge that runs a few yards to his right. From the stone bridge here, coincides with the normal way. Climb the short wall that dominates this ledge (easier the further to the right) and a very short dihedral climbing until you reach another ledge where There is a meeting with 3 chisels and two expansive fishing. 6a/Ae, 35 meters . If we have not managed well the touch, we can assemble the juniper meeting there on the right or the graving behind it and, once assembled, move the meeting to "fish" by a short and easy to cruise along the left.
Largo 2: Beautiful long, vertical and maintained, scaling with a tendency to the left where alternate nails with parables. Already at the end, the wall becomes less vertical and the difficulty decreases. find a modern meeting (abseiling facility) that will not ride, but we will continue few meters to the western spur, where there is another meeting with two dishes and an old nail. 6a/Ae, 25 meters .

throughout the mall last

Largo 3: Agrees with the lake 5 Normal road. Bonito long, vertical, air and maintained in which we again appear Paraboles between the nails. Meeting in tow. V, 20 meters .
Hence we have the top up helping a couple of meters of fixed rope.

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April 16, 1954, in the middle of Holy Week, the Catalan climbers J. Nubiola, JM Anglada and JM Torres made the 4th ascent of Gómez Laguna, performing the first iteration of the normal. His account is as follows: " As this part do not know well, we lose some time trying to locate the" Gómez Laguna, clambered over a rocky bridge between two monoliths and chose the smallest. In climbing totally free we stick with only two pins to output to overcome a slump, we reached the summit after 4 hours and see that indeed we are at the top of the Needle "Gomez Laguna having made the 4th ascent. It is a very exposed climbing due to poor quality of the rock is released very easily, which prevents thoroughly enjoy. We went down into three "rappells" almost in the dark and at 9 we are back in town . "Shortly afterwards," Cintero "and Paul made the 5th ascent of the route called" via bridge-fireplace "-with all probability, again the original path.

The 6 th climbing Gomez Laguna was made by Rafael Montaner and José Antonio Bescós re-opening, calling the way Cuerviñán North , although intrigued by the fact that say did the 3rd ascent the Son. If they did the 3 rd, who made the second? Perhaps facet, Seron and Hernando in the second complete the mall? If so, what route done from there? Was there a Cuerviñán south? The name may refer to in Mezalocha Cuerviñán balcony, which would open Rabada Montaner and later, in 1959, the famous dihedral, but those are my guesses. The story does not clear up many questions:
"GEMA Corded composed and Jose Rafael Montaner A. Bescós, making the child for the north side and down the south face, starting the climb to Gomez for the channel between it and a mall attached this wall being named on Abortion. From there, a cruise down the left horizontal reach the third shelf, turning the mall and continue the normal route to the summit (...) Riglos, June 13, 1956 . July 22 That same year, this track is again repeated by R. Ligorred, P. Peña, E. Vincent and A. Virgili, calling it "magnificent way, but only 3 days later, Vincent J." Nanin "and Pepe Diaz , entering the Abortion by the Zarzal Stack, perform the following qualification: "A little duck horizontal step ." Tan "Crested" should mind climbing to Pepe Diaz with Francisco Molina in November 1956 signed the " 1st variant to the North via Cuerviñán " that do not provide any technical data. direct input on the east side and today impracticable because of the vegetation, I have not found the opening date or the authors. The old guide and Orús Riglos Montaner, however, not to mention the escalation discourages vegetation " itinerary recommended by the sharp bit of rock decomposition."

Cruise In North Cuerviñán

Today, 3-way could be recommended for those who want to take this sharp needle:
The Normal : winding path, but easy and obvious. The rock on the east side is not that good and food is something for the vegetation, which detracts somewhat climbing.
The Direct : Normal finer than to not get out of the south face and not make as many trips, but is somewhat more difficult. Overall, highly recommended.
The route of underground (western spur): Opened on 28 March 1970 F. Monzon, R. Fayos, P. Alçay. Recently retrofitted.

The climb from the north face, coming to the entosta on Abortion by the fireplace Zarzal or rappelling from the Son "is not recommended. The climbs and are more direct, or quicker, or smarter, or significantly improve the characteristics of the tracks on the south side which, however, go back to climb to the top.

Two anecdotal notes on the needle and stones. The first: there at a time when a huge rock atop which Serón referenced in the appropriate configuration of the opening and someone with nothing better to do pushed into the void. The second: the accident in 1963, the doctor (although by then there was a doctor), José Ramón Morandeira in this mall and has since earned him the nickname "Morrofiemo." In the book published in Aragon Mountaineers to commemorate the 75 th anniversary of the founding of the club, said the accident Morandeira and origin of the nickname. I hang here an excerpt:
" that day had been climbing at Riglos in the company of my close friend of Luis Gutierrez: the ineffable, authentic and unique Guti. Woke up early little to no change and it got late. So, for do not miss the boat, we decided to go to small mallets: to Gomez Laguna, Cored behind, which had not yet done. After much up and down where it was not, as assumed technical direction to the complete Guti in these matters was a teacher, got to the ground. There, and insurance, Guti let me take over the delicate maneuver technique retrieve the rappel ropes. I pulled one, I thought it was stuck and looked up just in time to receive the mouth, the impact of a rock, detached from the top.
Ay, ay, ay, I moaned with torn lips, spitting blood and pieces of broken teeth If I can not leave it alone!, Guti muttering the while I was air-sickness and I wiped the blood with a rag (he called tissue).
spent a long time. Stop the bleeding. It hurt but, despite the destruction, not much. Guti asked him to come down to the people and alerted the Guardia Civil to go up to lend a hand, but he refused, before mixing with Picolet dead, it prevented his gypsy ancestry. So the strings recovered without further incident, picked up everything in the bag and threw down scree. Met the way the town without any problems and because I could not speak, he did it, cheering: " Since then, male, go nose phlegm as Chung I have been, and do not eat the ass you have clear . "Thus, all the way on foot to the village simpaticote plan. While, yes, was the generous gesture of bringing the full weight and helped me when I had some bad step: " not go falling off, you become more than morrofiemo carafiemo and I come in your tribe's stories, which are fascists." "