trackside location : refer to the marked fireplace to the right of the Pure which runs the track and placed in the vertical, under a small tree that is 30 meters above ground level of the second meeting. From there, continue going up the hill at the foot of road about 10 meters, with a gray wall visible under a horizontal niche long and 7 meters above the ground. L1
: Scaling easily up to the niche wall to 7 feet above the ground, which runs from right to left in its entirety. Recommended to protect the output of the niche (C4 # 1 (red Camalot), the next parabolt is near, but the soil as well.) Climbing the wall (V) to a ledge and go through to the left through two niches. The output of the second, above, is the meeting.
L2 : Overcoming the belly (6a +) that dominate the meeting on his left and climb with a trend of the right to reach a new niche, which we will go up through your left to easily reach the "throne", bracket the second meeting. L3
: Start with a short dihedral up meeting and leave it (V +) with a tendency to the left to another little marked dihedral. Easy terrain, but above (a single bridge of rock 10 meters) to achieve a parabolt that marks the beginning of the diagonal towards the right, looking for easy steps, leads us to the meeting.
L4 : Climb the wall to the left of the sharp crack located above the meeting and, once overcome, to easily follow a wall until you reach the cave (bivouac in the first ascent). Laboriously overcome the ceiling (6b/A0) and after a short passage of dihedral (recommended to protect) to arrive at the meeting. L5
: Follow the dihedral smoothly, with attention to the terrible rock wall on the right. Getting to the cave easier than it looks from below-protected with a nail and a stone bridge (V +) and to reach the ledges grassy and earthy from under the saddle of Puro, scroll to the right under the chimney looking for the meeting. Ability to link L4 + L5 (53 meters). L6
: Overcome the short wall above the assembly and for a short dihedral (IV +), enter the meeting at which they reach those coming from the hill of the Pure.
manhole. Montaner Rabada on |
: Easy long (IV +) in which the dihedral definitely fireplace becomes easily advancing X thanks to the vicinity of the walls and the generous size of the prey. L9
: over very short (IV +) with the same features as above. Possibility of linking L8 + L9 . L10
: The fireplace is closing (V) to finish turning back into the dihedral. Meeting left on the ledge "mayor" (bivouac in the first ascent) used before to finish retrofitting the shirking on the left, but with the first secure a bit far if we follow the original route. L11
: Follow the fissure dihedral advantage and prey on the left wall (6a) until it gradually loses vertical and junipers are reached the summit first. Last meeting with two dishes without ring to the right of the second largest juniper in the field and definitely lying. Possibility of linking L10 + L11 (55 meters) . Cima.
The cornice "mayor." Last bivouac |
Key Steps: 1st
long. Wall at the exit of the 1st niche. Decomposed rock niches.
2 ° long. Panza out of the meeting. Paso Fino, but superbly assured. Decomposed rock in the niche. 3rd
long. After the safe room (good rock bridge) there are several feet of climbing safe and easy without any means of defending himself without too much until the parabolt.
4 ° long. Cave of the bivouac. Output hard for free, no artificial problems.
5 ° long. Decomposed rock in the right wall. Rather demanding cave exit.
7 º long. Panza closing the dihedral.
11 º long. Final dihedral with a demanding step.
View decrease of Ram .
The reasons for the refurbishment of the bottom :
View history opening.
The years passed and the cordate were very few who ventured up the Seron-Millán without crossing from the hill of Pure and those who did, most of the time ended up rappelling from the first or second meeting. Sample of these withdrawals was the accumulation of slings, chisels and nails in the first meetings, coming to be in "the throne" a union of several anchors totaling two meters from end to end ... and it was only one of three similar meetings between the "scar" and "throne" exist.
Part of the material removed from the track after the retrofit |
The current refurbishment of the bottom-restoration, I should say, was under the strictest monitoring the ethics of retrofitting, while respecting the personality of the way both with regard to your itinerary, and the number placed insurance: restoration was done with the permission of Cintero, made from old insurance down and replaced by new ones, the latter carried out without adding more anchors than existed, would go even further, there are now fewer anchors which had at first to eliminate the over-accumulation of chisels in the meetings. Only minimally changed the placement of fixed anchors in a few cases to avoid unnecessary friction and avoid falling cornices. The real usefulness of the material found could speak at length, but I'll just three examples: 1 .- chisel
jumping on the wall making the first long pull gently
2 .- twisted nail splits early in the third over the first attempt to remove nail
3 .- jumping into the niche of the second over with the stress on the rope by falling the second rope!
All this explanation comes to mind because, after obtaining permission from Cintero in 2009, the news spread by word of mouth among veterans and the restoration climbers raised many doubts to which I have very fond: Villarig on your blog and Jesus Bernal in the commentary to the same post not clearly saw the need to refurbish the track and leave it as it was advocated.
Third |
long |
But he wanted the necessity or urgency of those trips "lightning" in bike did Riglos Anglada and peers who chose that combination by the hill of Pure and thus make it possible to arrive on Saturday, climbing on Sunday and return that night to Barcelona. Anglada and did so Guillamón the next year or in 1958 and myself with Navarro in 1959, that while Zaragoza was closer, train schedules were even more restrictive than the bikes. We have to wait three more years, or 1962, to make Mas Colomer and the third combination, and until 1965 to make IBARZ Ursi and the first iteration of the full path, eight years later. This year is repeated again for the pass.
Anyway, this "combination" of air and climbing fast turns into classic, while the original has been very few times and been almost forgotten, helped by the difficulties brought about by bad rock and desequipación. I hear a rumor that equip think I'm not sure that's a good idea, as it is can still field for those who want adventure and daring and collectors. While roads are muchísimas.Si parables and remains as is, in the collective memory will remain, "the bottom of the Seron-Millán. And when prepared, will become another means.
And Jesus Bernal comment : would be a bitch to fix that bottom for sports, I think there are already enough sports channels and at the end there will be nothing traditional scalable.
I repeated this bottom thirty-odd years and I had a hell of eight hours to climb seventy or eighty feet. Sweat, terror, wild effort, a bivouac on a ledge to seventy feet above the ground, experiences that anyone interested now but I like to remember.
is another way of climbing, with high risk, I think it should not disappear, no wall for all and for all, not misleading jodamos or mythical walls that have made progress this activity.
today's kids up for amazing sites, congratulations, but must also respect what we did in previous generations.
If the spur of Fire, more or less has been respected in his original conception, while also respecting some ways like this, the route of Summer, etc..
Times change and every time people use the walls is the one who decides, but I think there are a number of things that should be preserved, if only as archeology.
Well, I do not curl, but I could never have risen by direct Visor for free, I give the arms deal, and never occurred to me to go to sew on chisels, type the Ancient Carnival , to give me the pleasure of going through there.
A little respect to what has gone before will never come evil, if only in very specific.
long |
original location of the two witnesses in the blog of Gregory Villarig .
Pepe Diaz also, although we found out later that he told the 2009-10 Yearbook of Aragon Mountaineers discomfort over the "sports retrofit" of the road and because no one had consulted. Personally, this double criticism hurt me very particular. By obtaining the permit, along with Rabada Cintero, impeller opening, we assume that Pepe Diaz, who was not argued against the time of the refurbishment of the top, also agreed. On the other hand, defined as "sporty" anchors replacing old with new, it seemed so unfair and wrong.
The track at all has been in "sport design" and would be wrong to address it as such after the refurbishment of the top was necessary to do the same at the bottom, because it was a completely distorted way as a whole and forgotten in its most difficult and commendable, coming to be the case that many people know the existence of the lower half of the Seron-Millán. Since the aperturistas opened the way, many climbers were leaving material along its length when not trust the strength of what they were laid, at the time material to be reliable, but with corrosion and the passage of time are no longer effective to stop a fall or, in some cases as those already reported, even to hold the weight of a person. The accumulation of "scrap metal" and cords, especially numerous in the meetings, it was shocking while unhelpful. Who placed at the time did these anchors to put up with him a hypothetical fall and today, in large part, this material did not meet its function.
Seron-Millán. | comprehensive itinerary
During Holy Week, a Croatian roped climbing the third over in a crash. A bolus that causes a tremendous drop off about 15 meters of rope first arrested by the rock bridge, and without any too serious for what could have happened. The better weather in April makes people gathered at the base of the track and there are several stones that fall far short of the curious. Definitely, it seems that the ease with which they worked the first few times, not be repeated until it becomes cold.
Montaner, "Cintero" And Diaz |
I hope this work will serve to scroll through these walls who admire the good work and the exceptional bravery of the four openings: Rafael Montaner, Angel Lopez "Cintero, Alberto Pepe Diaz Rabada and .
Finally, here is the link to the news in Barrabes taken from this article, with reviews of Philip Cherry.
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