Seron - Miller Mall Piso - Riglos (1 ª part) |
Seron and Fernando Millán Ángel |
Climbing the
Seron - Millán: review and sketches. Angel
Serón is considered unanimously the father of the escalation in Aragon. Nicknamed "The Arrow", not by its strong ideology as commonly thought Falangist but for his habit of skiing down without turning at high speed, volunteered Blue Division who fought with the Nazis against the Soviet Union and returned from the War world devoted to other more laudable achievements in the eyes today. In an era in which there is no logical explanation was that of climbing walls, Serono achieved with different partners, some of the most emblematic summits were to be promoted. The Red Needle
, the Gomez Laguna, tips and Montolivo No Matter or Peña Fire Just don Riglos and the Cabezón de Mosen Pedro de Agüero are some of his "firsts" achieved, although it certainly was the ascent to the Sola de Aguero Peña
which led to recognition as a pioneer of later generations. Also made important first repetitions as normal
Ram and
Pany-Haus, as laudable attempts at first, as the San Cosme Egg
or Pure in Riglos
. While other climbers roped formed as Fau, Laguens and Marti (Chichin) is his rope Fernando Millán the most enduring in the collective memory, leaving without apparent continuity of Aragonese hegemony in climbing when the rope dropped its activities after the death of facet.
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Seron-Millán. Original review |
But that there was a continuity. Heirs of the spirit of openness were certainly Rabada and "Cintero" who in the following years passed quickly into history for their achievements and in 1956 tried to draw a straight path on the west side of Ram colorful, using the only weakness in the form crack that, along with pure, rose to the top. At that time, the terrible rock quality in the first long pendulum drove down Cintero without consequences too grave, but postponed the climb for another day. Opening a year after the
Ravier of the Mallo Tozal came to alter the hitherto peaceful Aragonese monopoly as far as new routes are concerned, especially since Panyella Riglos leave vowing never to return. The Aragonese realized that the projects had the fastest supplement, so that after years of relative relaxation, reappeared in the rush to be first to climb the remaining routes.
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Rabada in a manhole |
On the development of climbing and some fun facts such as the exile of Don Justo or accident Oyarzabal Juanito,
and published an article in Barrabes , so I will not to lead to the same data. Simply comment to the friendly discussions between the two factions of the rope for the itinerary at the bottom, I took to differentiate between the piada Rabada right-Alberto and Angel López "Cintero", designed to go straight vertical path - and the left-Montaner and Pepe Rafael Diaz, who were more inclined to avoid with the steps set forth crossings and complicated. Transcribe the review:
19 th Climbing Mallo Pison.
1 st and the West face - via Seron and Millán.
We this escalation 20, 21 and 22 June 1957, the rope formed by Juan José Díaz and Rafael Montaner representing the left and Angel Lopez and Alberto Rabada by rights, all from GEMA and Angel also
FJ
The route starts further to the left of the Caves of the Virgin, following a few meters vertically. Then continue to the left to caves or small niches and then continues along the channel-chimney or whatever to pass the Pure. From here continue along the crack to the top.
29 hours of climbing and two bivouacs, pin 50. Itinerary
extremely difficult and long.
Rafael Montaner Juan José Díaz - Angel Lopez (Cintero) - Alberto Rabada
No discussions yet with the name you give to the path: Seron - Millán, in homage to their teachers, it seemed appropriate to components of the "left" and "right" of the expedition.
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Piada 1 st repeat from the Pure |
The following year,
Anglada and Guillamón carried the variant Catalan access from the hill of the Pure, which makes them
many critical by the terrible squares bottom of the track. However, in the following years, due to the great difficulty and poor quality of the rock bottom, no one seems able to enter the original path from the ground and all the repetitions are performed normal coming from the Pure.
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Piada |
first repeat integral
It took several years for someone to get back up that way from the ground, where once again the very large rope formed by
Ursi Down IBARZ and Jesus which achieved the feat. The route is not repeated exactly in the original itinerary in his first long, but also inaugurate the route climbed the few who followed in his footsteps cordate, it is easy to go in but broken horizontal ledge that leaves us in the vertical " throne ", while the original track was rising straight from the first niche to achieve" the scar "and from there through a perilous journey down to "the throne." Note in this microtoponimia that the term "scar" was later also used on the spur of the Western Fire and Naranjo, like "the throne" also refers to the famous and huge balcony of the Mosquitoes in the brim.
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try lowering the Seron-Millán |
So, eight years after opening the first repetition is getting full of climbing, but a relatively unknown fact is that, before that, other climbers go that route again, this time downward. The uncomfortable always return to the top of Ram forgotten by both the massive return of requiring leave fixed ropes, as the Volao, as the Summer Circus, still carrying the climbers to find a decrease
comfortable, fast and secure and Rabada was set in what was his only start in the Ram for that function. Unfortunately, that attempt to decrease by Alberto Pérez "the tailor" and Alberto Rabada "disaster", was not completed because of the impossibility of recovering the ropes. The cold end of November forced to return to the top and improvise a fire.
continued ...
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