Monday, April 26, 2010

Roller Coaster Tycoon 3 No Cd

Seron - Millán (Mallo Pison - Riglos): Overview and sketches

trackside location : refer to the marked fireplace to the right of the Pure which runs the track and placed in the vertical, under a small tree that is 30 meters above ground level of the second meeting. From there, continue going up the hill at the foot of road about 10 meters, with a gray wall visible under a horizontal niche long and 7 meters above the ground. L1

: Scaling easily up to the niche wall to 7 feet above the ground, which runs from right to left in its entirety. Recommended to protect the output of the niche (C4 # 1 (red Camalot), the next parabolt is near, but the soil as well.) Climbing the wall (V) to a ledge and go through to the left through two niches. The output of the second, above, is the meeting.

L2 : Overcoming the belly (6a +) that dominate the meeting on his left and climb with a trend of the right to reach a new niche, which we will go up through your left to easily reach the "throne", bracket the second meeting. L3

: Start with a short dihedral up meeting and leave it (V +) with a tendency to the left to another little marked dihedral. Easy terrain, but above (a single bridge of rock 10 meters) to achieve a parabolt that marks the beginning of the diagonal towards the right, looking for easy steps, leads us to the meeting.

L4 : Climb the wall to the left of the sharp crack located above the meeting and, once overcome, to easily follow a wall until you reach the cave (bivouac in the first ascent). Laboriously overcome the ceiling (6b/A0) and after a short passage of dihedral (recommended to protect) to arrive at the meeting. L5

: Follow the dihedral smoothly, with attention to the terrible rock wall on the right. Getting to the cave easier than it looks from below-protected with a nail and a stone bridge (V +) and to reach the ledges grassy and earthy from under the saddle of Puro, scroll to the right under the chimney looking for the meeting. Ability to link L4 + L5 (53 meters). L6

: Overcome the short wall above the assembly and for a short dihedral (IV +), enter the meeting at which they reach those coming from the hill of the Pure.

manhole. Montaner Rabada on
L7: Start with a deep belly dihedral to close it (V +) is clearly visible from the meeting. After overcoming it, continue the same trend and reach a wedge-shaped entosta, scroll to the right of this wedge, immediately finding the meeting. Possibility of linking L6 + L7 . L8

: Easy long (IV +) in which the dihedral definitely fireplace becomes easily advancing X thanks to the vicinity of the walls and the generous size of the prey. L9

: over very short (IV +) with the same features as above. Possibility of linking L8 + L9 . L10

: The fireplace is closing (V) to finish turning back into the dihedral. Meeting left on the ledge "mayor" (bivouac in the first ascent) used before to finish retrofitting the shirking on the left, but with the first secure a bit far if we follow the original route. L11

: Follow the fissure dihedral advantage and prey on the left wall (6a) until it gradually loses vertical and junipers are reached the summit first. Last meeting with two dishes without ring to the right of the second largest juniper in the field and definitely lying. Possibility of linking L10 + L11 (55 meters) . Cima.
The cornice "mayor." Last bivouac

Key Steps: 1st
long. Wall at the exit of the 1st niche. Decomposed rock niches.
2 ° long. Panza out of the meeting. Paso Fino, but superbly assured. Decomposed rock in the niche. 3rd
long. After the safe room (good rock bridge) there are several feet of climbing safe and easy without any means of defending himself without too much until the parabolt.
4 ° long. Cave of the bivouac. Output hard for free, no artificial problems.
5 ° long. Decomposed rock in the right wall. Rather demanding cave exit.
7 º long. Panza closing the dihedral.
11 º long. Final dihedral with a demanding step.

View decrease of Ram .


The reasons for the refurbishment of the bottom :

View history opening.

The years passed and the cordate were very few who ventured up the Seron-Millán without crossing from the hill of Pure and those who did, most of the time ended up rappelling from the first or second meeting. Sample of these withdrawals was the accumulation of slings, chisels and nails in the first meetings, coming to be in "the throne" a union of several anchors totaling two meters from end to end ... and it was only one of three similar meetings between the "scar" and "throne" exist.
Part of the material removed from the track after the retrofit
few years ago (by the date that puts the nails placed as chemicals, was probably in 2002), Mountain Groups of the Civil Guard to retrofit the fire, leaving involuntary and definitely doomed to oblivion the bottom with its accumulation of archaic and useless for its function. This retooling of the top consistently attracted more climbers to make the fireplace in the Seron-Millán, for lack of a safer route, they agreed to this part exceeding Normal through the Pure. The result of this retrofit "half" of a track was evident a few months: the usual crowds at the Cave of the Pure, one of the most contentious points Riglos as far as overcrowding is concerned, and aggravated mayhem of climbers going up, coming down and stayed locked in the collapse of the cave came to be very curious scene.

The current refurbishment of the bottom-restoration, I should say, was under the strictest monitoring the ethics of retrofitting, while respecting the personality of the way both with regard to your itinerary, and the number placed insurance: restoration was done with the permission of Cintero, made from old insurance down and replaced by new ones, the latter carried out without adding more anchors than existed, would go even further, there are now fewer anchors which had at first to eliminate the over-accumulation of chisels in the meetings. Only minimally changed the placement of fixed anchors in a few cases to avoid unnecessary friction and avoid falling cornices. The real usefulness of the material found could speak at length, but I'll just three examples: 1 .- chisel
jumping on the wall making the first long pull gently
2 .- twisted nail splits early in the third over the first attempt to remove nail
3 .- jumping into the niche of the second over with the stress on the rope by falling the second rope!

All this explanation comes to mind because, after obtaining permission from Cintero in 2009, the news spread by word of mouth among veterans and the restoration climbers raised many doubts to which I have very fond: Villarig on your blog and Jesus Bernal in the commentary to the same post not clearly saw the need to refurbish the track and leave it as it was advocated.

long Third
long Seventh Review of
Gregorio Villarig : (...) However, I must say that is curious that this combination of raising the normal route of Pure and continue down the chimney of the Seron-Miller has been with the name "Seron-Millan." Genuine made it 20, 21 and June 22, 1957, Rabada, López Díaz Montaner. And he drew the aplomb of the chimney, except the first two runs, starting almost at the Caves of the Virgin and deriving then left in search of a dihedral toward the fireplace. Of his difficulty speaking someone as unconventional as the "Bunny" in his book Verticualidad, that says more or less, in those years, he had not done anything like either the north or south of the Pyrenees and, if anything, maybe some comparable in Dolomites.
But he wanted the necessity or urgency of those trips "lightning" in bike did Riglos Anglada and peers who chose that combination by the hill of Pure and thus make it possible to arrive on Saturday, climbing on Sunday and return that night to Barcelona. Anglada and did so Guillamón the next year or in 1958 and myself with Navarro in 1959, that while Zaragoza was closer, train schedules were even more restrictive than the bikes. We have to wait three more years, or 1962, to make Mas Colomer and the third combination, and until 1965 to make IBARZ Ursi and the first iteration of the full path, eight years later. This year is repeated again for the pass.

Anyway, this "combination" of air and climbing fast turns into classic, while the original has been very few times and been almost forgotten, helped by the difficulties brought about by bad rock and desequipación. I hear a rumor that equip think I'm not sure that's a good idea, as it is can still field for those who want adventure and daring and collectors. While roads are muchísimas.Si parables and remains as is, in the collective memory will remain, "the bottom of the Seron-Millán. And when prepared, will become another means.


And Jesus Bernal comment : would be a bitch to fix that bottom for sports, I think there are already enough sports channels and at the end there will be nothing traditional scalable.
I repeated this bottom thirty-odd years and I had a hell of eight hours to climb seventy or eighty feet. Sweat, terror, wild effort, a bivouac on a ledge to seventy feet above the ground, experiences that anyone interested now but I like to remember.
is another way of climbing, with high risk, I think it should not disappear, no wall for all and for all, not misleading jodamos or mythical walls that have made progress this activity.
today's kids up for amazing sites, congratulations, but must also respect what we did in previous generations.
If the spur of Fire, more or less has been respected in his original conception, while also respecting some ways like this, the route of Summer, etc..
Times change and every time people use the walls is the one who decides, but I think there are a number of things that should be preserved, if only as archeology.
Well, I do not curl, but I could never have risen by direct Visor for free, I give the arms deal, and never occurred to me to go to sew on chisels, type the Ancient Carnival , to give me the pleasure of going through there.

A little respect to what has gone before will never come evil, if only in very specific.
long Fifth

original location of the two witnesses in the blog of Gregory Villarig .

Pepe Diaz also, although we found out later that he told the 2009-10 Yearbook of Aragon Mountaineers discomfort over the "sports retrofit" of the road and because no one had consulted. Personally, this double criticism hurt me very particular. By obtaining the permit, along with Rabada Cintero, impeller opening, we assume that Pepe Diaz, who was not argued against the time of the refurbishment of the top, also agreed. On the other hand, defined as "sporty" anchors replacing old with new, it seemed so unfair and wrong.

The track at all has been in "sport design" and would be wrong to address it as such after the refurbishment of the top was necessary to do the same at the bottom, because it was a completely distorted way as a whole and forgotten in its most difficult and commendable, coming to be the case that many people know the existence of the lower half of the Seron-Millán. Since the aperturistas opened the way, many climbers were leaving material along its length when not trust the strength of what they were laid, at the time material to be reliable, but with corrosion and the passage of time are no longer effective to stop a fall or, in some cases as those already reported, even to hold the weight of a person. The accumulation of "scrap metal" and cords, especially numerous in the meetings, it was shocking while unhelpful. Who placed at the time did these anchors to put up with him a hypothetical fall and today, in large part, this material did not meet its function.
comprehensive itinerary
Seron-Millán.
After the third day of retrofitting, which was reached at the base of the Pure, is left fixed ropes between the first and third meeting to facilitate the work that lay ahead. Although the refurbishment was never a secret, the evidence of the strings emphasized that he was working on the route and there were some who took to roped climbing route, almost all get off to reach the last meeting equipped, except of the rope formed by Toño Villarig Carasol and Gregory will also continue terrain without retrofit to pass the Pure.

During Holy Week, a Croatian roped climbing the third over in a crash. A bolus that causes a tremendous drop off about 15 meters of rope first arrested by the rock bridge, and without any too serious for what could have happened. The better weather in April makes people gathered at the base of the track and there are several stones that fall far short of the curious. Definitely, it seems that the ease with which they worked the first few times, not be repeated until it becomes cold.

Rabada
Montaner, "Cintero" And Diaz
This makes the ethics of the opening is left with anger aside and re-equipped van to the practical and fast by accessing the following two times (fourth and fifth) from the hill of Pure while maintaining the standard of drill only to replace those anchors or burrs that could not endure a hypothetical fall, ultimately becoming an escalation demanding and sometimes exposed, so it is recommended to somebody who knows enough to repeat riglera rock and have sufficiently consolidated as the degree bound (V / V +) and control well the psychological aspect of an escalation of these characteristics.

I hope this work will serve to scroll through these walls who admire the good work and the exceptional bravery of the four openings: Rafael Montaner, Angel Lopez "Cintero, Alberto Pepe Diaz Rabada and .


Finally, here is the link to the news in Barrabes taken from this article, with reviews of Philip Cherry.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Certificate For Thanks

Seron - Miller Mall Piso - Riglos (1 ª part)

Seron and Fernando Millán Ángel
Climbing the Seron - Millán: review and sketches. Angel

Serón is considered unanimously the father of the escalation in Aragon. Nicknamed "The Arrow", not by its strong ideology as commonly thought Falangist but for his habit of skiing down without turning at high speed, volunteered Blue Division who fought with the Nazis against the Soviet Union and returned from the War world devoted to other more laudable achievements in the eyes today. In an era in which there is no logical explanation was that of climbing walls, Serono achieved with different partners, some of the most emblematic summits were to be promoted. The Red Needle , the Gomez Laguna, tips and Montolivo No Matter or Peña Fire Just don Riglos and the Cabezón de Mosen Pedro de Agüero are some of his "firsts" achieved, although it certainly was the ascent to the Sola de Aguero Peña which led to recognition as a pioneer of later generations. Also made important first repetitions as normal Ram and Pany-Haus, as laudable attempts at first, as the San Cosme Egg or Pure in Riglos . While other climbers roped formed as Fau, Laguens and Marti (Chichin) is his rope Fernando Millán the most enduring in the collective memory, leaving without apparent continuity of Aragonese hegemony in climbing when the rope dropped its activities after the death of facet.
Seron-Millán. Original review
But that there was a continuity. Heirs of the spirit of openness were certainly Rabada and "Cintero" who in the following years passed quickly into history for their achievements and in 1956 tried to draw a straight path on the west side of Ram colorful, using the only weakness in the form crack that, along with pure, rose to the top. At that time, the terrible rock quality in the first long pendulum drove down Cintero without consequences too grave, but postponed the climb for another day. Opening a year after the Ravier of the Mallo Tozal came to alter the hitherto peaceful Aragonese monopoly as far as new routes are concerned, especially since Panyella Riglos leave vowing never to return. The Aragonese realized that the projects had the fastest supplement, so that after years of relative relaxation, reappeared in the rush to be first to climb the remaining routes.

Rabada in a manhole
On the development of climbing and some fun facts such as the exile of Don Justo or accident Oyarzabal Juanito, and published an article in Barrabes , so I will not to lead to the same data. Simply comment to the friendly discussions between the two factions of the rope for the itinerary at the bottom, I took to differentiate between the piada Rabada right-Alberto and Angel López "Cintero", designed to go straight vertical path - and the left-Montaner and Pepe Rafael Diaz, who were more inclined to avoid with the steps set forth crossings and complicated. Transcribe the review:

19 th Climbing Mallo Pison.
1 st and the West face - via Seron and Millán.
We this escalation 20, 21 and 22 June 1957, the rope formed by Juan José Díaz and Rafael Montaner representing the left and Angel Lopez and Alberto Rabada by rights, all from GEMA and Angel also
FJ
The route starts further to the left of the Caves of the Virgin, following a few meters vertically. Then continue to the left to caves or small niches and then continues along the channel-chimney or whatever to pass the Pure. From here continue along the crack to the top.
29 hours of climbing and two bivouacs, pin 50. Itinerary
extremely difficult and long.
Rafael Montaner Juan José Díaz - Angel Lopez (Cintero) - Alberto Rabada

No discussions yet with the name you give to the path: Seron - Millán, in homage to their teachers, it seemed appropriate to components of the "left" and "right" of the expedition.

Piada 1 st repeat from the Pure
The following year, Anglada and Guillamón carried the variant Catalan access from the hill of the Pure, which makes them many critical by the terrible squares bottom of the track. However, in the following years, due to the great difficulty and poor quality of the rock bottom, no one seems able to enter the original path from the ground and all the repetitions are performed normal coming from the Pure.

first repeat integral
Piada
It took several years for someone to get back up that way from the ground, where once again the very large rope formed by Ursi Down IBARZ and Jesus which achieved the feat. The route is not repeated exactly in the original itinerary in his first long, but also inaugurate the route climbed the few who followed in his footsteps cordate, it is easy to go in but broken horizontal ledge that leaves us in the vertical " throne ", while the original track was rising straight from the first niche to achieve" the scar "and from there through a perilous journey down to "the throne." Note in this microtoponimia that the term "scar" was later also used on the spur of the Western Fire and Naranjo, like "the throne" also refers to the famous and huge balcony of the Mosquitoes in the brim.

try lowering the Seron-Millán
So, eight years after opening the first repetition is getting full of climbing, but a relatively unknown fact is that, before that, other climbers go that route again, this time downward. The uncomfortable always return to the top of Ram forgotten by both the massive return of requiring leave fixed ropes, as the Volao, as the Summer Circus, still carrying the climbers to find a decrease comfortable, fast and secure and Rabada was set in what was his only start in the Ram for that function. Unfortunately, that attempt to decrease by Alberto Pérez "the tailor" and Alberto Rabada "disaster", was not completed because of the impossibility of recovering the ropes. The cold end of November forced to return to the top and improvise a fire.

continued ...