Easter in 1957, a group of five French climbers crosses with
skis the gap to reach Ordesa Rolando and, after leaving their tables near the top of Tozal, continue down to the meadow to stay in the old house where they will spend the night Viu. The next day, rising Carriata made to the base of Tozal where they prepare for one of the most important openings that until then had been made in Aragon. Jean Ravier, Claude Dufourmantelle, Marcel Kahn, Claude Noël Blotti Jaccoux and form the group of climbers who are beating the walls of the imposing south face of Tozal of Mallo. Their presence is ignored from the depths of Ordesa Prairie, where no suspected that there was someone climbing until night falls and the front light betrays its presence at the beginning of a long chimney that carries top.
In the first large follow the route taken by José Santacana in their attempt to make the first, but where it was diverted to the "Plaza Catalunya", the French climbers and continue the direct vertical path that had been proposed to make . After the lies of George A. Gavin and attempts Santacana, the French found another surprise: a 100 meters from the base, the mysterious initials "CI" are engraved on the wall.
After the first long Santacana tours and the first step
of commitment is the great crash of the "chimney feature" as it is known since then. Based on pins and leaving fixed rope, artificial able to overcome in a step that has now become quite polished by the passage of the climbers. After that first difficult step, they still have a good section of crashes with the rush to finish the day. next day, leaving them explore the fire that easily, they overcome to reach the top. In just 17 hours of actual climbing complete the tour, after leaving the track practically equipped with 35 pins of the nearly 100 that placed, carabiners, ropes and an abutment fixed.
probably still be given to the opening of the importance Ravier
actually had on the development of climbing in Aragon. Although you can not say q ue 
local openings previously collected were unimportant, it is fair to say that the year 1957 marks a turning point in the achievements of that generation of climbers from Aragon to check that escalating due to the style and media of the French neighbors, on the one hand, the Aragonese open to the outside within the modest possibilities offered its economy, making its major in the French Pyrenees. On the other hand, begin to design other types of channels characterized by large vertical search, hotlines and difficult paths, giving rise to the great classics of all enjoy today. Deputy two excellent reviews / sketch of the Mallo Ravier to Tozal learned Onaclimb and Caranorte . First
repetitions Ravier to Tozal of Mallo: read here.
0 comments:
Post a Comment