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C / Rabada and Navarro s / n

I have here an initiative which I consider fair and interesting: a proposal to give the name and Navarro Rabada a Zaragoza Street, the birthplace of Albert Rabada and making Ernesto Navarro.

is curious that in Zaragoza deservedly been devoted to other mountaineers municipal facilities and has not done the same with Rabada and Navarro. Without going any further, we Pepe Garcés sports and climbing Lausín Michelangelo, but the names of Rabada and Navarro are distributed by shelters, roads and all peaks Aragón and yet have no remembrance in the city \u200b\u200bwhere he lived most iconic climbers who come out of Zaragoza.

Excellency Mr. Mayor Zaragoza, Juan Alberto Belloch:

Climbers Rabada Alberto and Ernesto Navarro are two of the greatest athletes in Aragon has twentieth century. Forty-six years after his death while climbing the Eiger north face, his exploits are still alive in the minds of the mountaineers and climbers from all over Spain, who continue to admiring his achievements despite the past tense.

Although Rabada and Navarro are known among mountain lovers, there are shelters dedicated to his memory and even emblematic mountains Naranjo de Bulnes is the name used to designate the road opened, are not yet sufficiently valued in Zaragoza and Aragon.

Therefore, we request that a the streets of the city is dedicated to preserving his memory.


More information Newspaper Ink Heraldo de Aragón.

Mudroom Storage Bench

The sad and lonely death and Navarro Rabada

Interesting article in the Heraldo de Aragón.

" Les put in history: the Aragonese looking to climb the north face of the Eiger in the Swiss Alps, which was then the more frightening escalation in the world. And they were at 300 meters so. A fierce storm, the physical exhaustion and extreme cold ended their lives. It had Luis Mayor, partner of the expedition, the last hours of life and Navarro Rabada "

Continue reading on the blog Newspaper Ink on death Rabada Alberto and Ernesto Navarro

Edito : A few days later, he published a new article in ink on periodicals Ram climbs of Fire (RIGL) and the Ram's Roost (Ordesa)

Image Gallery Milena Velba

Murcia / Via Alberto Rabada the Ram (RIGL): review and sketches

At Christmas of 1964 in the village of Riglos was a curious picture, like a huge living crib it were, a Christmas star three feet long, decorated the landscape of the town while the party lasted. Christmas star that was promoted by Ursi and Carmelo Royo Down by a system of fissures that ascend the west wall of the Piso, which was then crossed the road just Seron-Millán and his deep and feature fireplace.

star placement was recorded by Miguel Vidal, giving rise to a short film called " A star in the escalation " that Vidal himself tell details: " A Cruchaga Felix, President of the section Swimming Centre Mountain Helios, came to Bethlehem in a Riglos. Down Ursicinus were commissioned, Carmelo Royo, Angel Lopez and myself, I offered to film. We had to install a star high enough and install a crib at his feet. Enough people came and then sang Christmas carols. In short, it was a real Christmas party and foreshadowing. Fairly common people came to watch this. It seemed a very nice, very nice so that we set up a crib in the village. This film was very successful there in Riglos when it happened. "

That means laying up to star in a pair of long, remained unfinished. Ursi opened the following year the carnivalesque by the center of Ram and soon after he moved to the Valley of Tena, leaving other cordate continuity solution to the top of the mall by the route had begun.

Miguel Angel and José Luis García Gallego

arrived to the early days of 1976 and appears in an important Riglos climber and at that time. Miguel Ángel García Gallego, "from Murcia, and has excelled in the English vertical panorama by various activities: 21 years conducted the first winter of the West Orange (who previously had taken the deaths of Patxi Berrio, Ramon Ortiz and Jose Luis Arrabal in two different accidents), the Murcia of the Mallo Tozal and Directísimo Winter of 74 a year later, are the most important activities, regardless of the very important climbs and expeditions to come after, including the first route opened by foreigners in Yosemite, the Mediterranean.

Along with his brother Jose Luis, over twelve days January 1976 they opened the way for the west of Ram, finally completing a bivouac-including wall-the first ascent, leaving the road equipped. The original name of the track, Alberto Rabada , whom Miguel Ángel García Gallego so admires, was overshadowed by the fame of "Murcia", since from the early days was called the road to Murcia or "Murcia" as now known worldwide.

Bottom of the path from the fourth meeting.

At this point, it is fair recognize that in the names riglera and there are few spaces with the name or alias of Alberto Rabada (Edil): the way Alberto Rabada (Murcia), route Edil and Red Needle Edil Justo de la Peña, the Felix Méndez better known as the Fire Rabada-Navarro, same case as in northern Puro, also known as Rabada-Navarro), or even confirm, the cornice surrounding the Ram Edil 20 meters the summit. So in order to distinguish this way of the rest of "rabadás" is a logical consequence the name that has been successful in this journey has been that of "Murcia".

Miguel Angel García Gallego Riglos again only 4 months after the opening of the Albert Rabada to reopen the rift Gallego-Carrillo to the fire and again with his brother José Luis for the opening of the Mediterranean also in the Fire, this time in June 1981. It was the only opening Murcia Riglos in those years because in 1978 Sevi and Lozano also left their mark on the visor Direct. At this point, I note the taste of the Murcia of the time for the winter starts, beating authentic records retention wall. Review
road :

6c

Final 6 th long after successfully passing

L1: Characteristic dihedral riglero, with some trips between parables in easy area. The more complicated steps are well protected.

6b L2 : Long fun to crack with two complicated steps in a small little roof that is drawn from the right and another step at the entrance to the meeting. 6a +

L3: Sequence of cracks tending diagonally to the left at first and then straight. Long and disfrutón. The 6th L4

: De bolus bolus abundant following brands of magnesium. the 6th

L5: Another over a long song, but it begins to collapse in a subtle but merciless. Ignoring a former anchor at the beginning of long and easier to search the area (magnesium of the previous cordate will tell). 6a + . L6

: Key Largo. Diagonally to the left to find the belly of 6c, but very securely bound in step, even in A0. Stirrup highly recommended for those who go right on the grade. Final long hard, blunt and polished, but without problems in A0. 6c

L7: Long vertical step at the end of the long drive with an old sling savior for anyone who wants to ratchet. 6b

L8: Hang out with the right tendency to overcome a belly and ride to the top. Mount rescue ring meeting or a juniper few meters above. 6b +

And so up the brave. Alex Huber, in just:

Editorial: Chema in the comments recommended the option of linking lengths: L2 + L3 (about 65 m) with care to friction because it is bias and should be put on tapes and lengthening L4 + L5, the best option, about 60 m great.

View Ram decline.

Dragon Ball Z Episode Vegeta Bulma

Cintero the Pure Way (Mallos Riglos)

Related: Climbing the
Normal Pure
Climbing the North Pure

Ambrose Valentine "Lalo"

The September 7, 1975, 22 years after his Tread summit was the first time, the third pure knowledge of the four paths that cross each of its four sides. The rope made by Valentine Asensio, Gonzalo Prado "Lalo" Garcia-Izquierdo and Ambrose manage to complete a difficult and laborious path that runs along the inside of the Pure, back where you rappel from the top. Had been 15 years since Rabada and Navarro ended the north of Pure - without any opening was completed in perhaps the most symbolic of Riglos mall. In 1980, Fernando Cobo managed to finish in 12 awful long exposed rock climbing another old aspirations Riglos usual, the Helios satellite, which covers the entire outer face of the Pure.

Third Cintero

along

The aperturistas climbing the east face of the mall in five long, the last of them shared in the end with normal route to open at the time M. Bescós, Rabada and "Cintero." It is precisely Ángel López Martínez "Cintero" , which is followed like a shadow the trite tagline of "the-survivor-of-the-mythical-roped-who-won-the-Puro" - who spent climbing and put their name on the track, and MD cotándola (VI-Graduation in time, with several sections of A2). The first guidelines recommended carrying scrap metal precision: mediums, wooden blocks washboard nails all measures, sheet stoppers recoverable and to progress through the "cluster of medium quality, very smooth and difficult to nail."

Via Cintero from the hill of Pure

After this opening, the years go by and it seems that this rise will attract many climbers, climbing the pure, preferably inclined in the normal way, to a lesser extent, by way of the north side. The rock quality, poor insurance and the overall difficulty of the road is not good letters of introduction to the pretenders to the mall. This trip seems doomed to oblivion, but in 1996 two excellent climbers and are Chiro Sanchez and Javier Arnaud able to put the red dot, among many other ways in Riglos as Villar Luis Picazo and the Fire Micomicón to Piso, the doe to Frechin ... the difficulty of giving Cintero 6a +, degree today has risen to 6b. In the words of Chiro:

Current equipment

" All these ascents were made with the utmost respect for schedules and openings, with a very strict ethics, without installing any expansion and placing insurance only mobile guards (rock bridges, pins, stoppers or friends). The idea was to release the first of the long rope, putting the necessary protections for free, without using artificial climbing whenever possible. "

We have to wait until 2008, with restoration by Toño Carasol anchors for this route start getting more regularly to visitors. Parabolt some strategically located in the hard steps, a small touch on the itinerary and meetings bombproof attract more climbers achieved today what could the ancient and limited equipment a few years ago. Retrofitted on the road, Ambrosio García-Izquierdo commented as follows: " The earth spins and spins and the destination seems to be in the same rhythm. I'm not sure why, but lately it seems that the mallets are home this summer (hot) I enjoyed repeatedly climbs to my dear mallets.
Carasol Toño One day he called me with the idea of \u200b\u200bretooling the way Angel Lopez (serious and committed), with only a half dozen repetitions. I repeated some ways re-equipped for it, as the northern pure and not left with a deep feeling of wellness, recognizing what was the track and it is now. Admittedly the change. Discuss
Valentin Gonzalo Prado Asensio and the idea of \u200b\u200bmaking up the path, to which no objection. I confess that many a night thinking about whether we were doing the right thing by replacing parabolt mediums and chisels. The good work of Tono and Manolo, who went up the road as we opened, he gave the trial to re-equip properly.
So at 33 years 1 day (as convicts) I am with Toño for those dollars, what will tell a parent their children? The road has been wonderful, a jewel. Are memories of the first ascent as a symbol, material to use 10 tapes long. Alpine flavor. Review on page Inazio.Salu2 Tito. .

Final second

long

Cintero now done in 3 lengths and can end on a powerful meeting that marks the first of abseiling of Pure and may reach the top following the cable easily. However, we must warn the "paraboltoinómanos" that after the restoration, the itinerary has not been, fortunately, as a way of sports, the rock quality, especially in the last over, it remains highly questionable and some of the bridges of rock that we will find are rather precarious. It is advisable not to go very right in the degree and some experience in rock riglera to enjoy this climb.

Among the recommendations and warnings for those who want to make the track, would touch on two points. The usual crowds time to go to Pure negatively affect the Cintero for two reasons: the first is that unless we are the first to ascend the Pure, which is normal than who is rappelling bother us our climb, as the road goes along the same line of abseiling, climbing preclude reaching the ropes in tension of who descends. The second reason is that, large or small, is inevitable while throwing stones at finishing climb the chimney of the Pure, who happens to be dangerous for climbing or rappelling below. Bear that in mind and choose hours, days or times when we are not going to find many people going through the chimney of the Pure.

Wella Straight Cream Instructions

La Cuca Bellostas normal. Rodellar (Huesca).

The Citadel and Cuca Bellostas

Bellostas (Or Bellosta) is a place name appears three times in the Sierra de Guara. In the beautiful, historic small town of As Bellostas at the head of gully Balcez (or river Isuala), there are the houses of the brothers in Otín Bellosta and needle flagship of all pointing to the sky in the ravine Mascún. Following the path of that name, it seems clear that Bellosta name has its origins in the town of As (the) Bellostas and is also found that the name or Cuca Cuca Bellosta Bellostas comes from a curious and funny story that the family has Bellosta of Otín protagonist.

Otín

Bellostas House in

Bellosta Cosme's house became famous outside of the Sierra de Guara thanks to the photo that made Lucien Briet on October 17, 1908 still today, despite the ruin in which it is-one of the most monumental Otín and most recognized of all the mountains. Without knowing the meaning of "pussy" is difficult to guess the origin of the name: The story of "pussy" arises from the repeated habit he had a household member Bellosta boast of virility, often apropos of nothing in the conversation due to the amount of legitimate and illegitimate children awarding the character and size of the prominent claimed she was his penis. So heavy was the custom for the neighbors took revenge Otín mocking the ghost and baptized as "Bellosta Cuca" (the literal translation would be "the prick of Bellosta) to the phallic needle from the bottom Mascún to the top of the coastal Otín Real Mascún controls. Know whether the protagonist of the story felt aggrieved or grateful to the comparative stone between his "pussy" and so colorful needle.

The escalation of this needle was a goal pursued by the still poor climbers roped parties Rodellar approached the mid-twentieth century. Climbers Peña Guara Huesca previously managed to overcome all the serious difficulties which are now known as the normal way, but left the project and this slope was used by the rope Zaragoza Orobigt - Paul of Aragon Mountaineers to finish the final road and, incidentally, renamed the needle with the name of Manuel Bescós, died a year before the fall of Ram .

The escalation of this needle, fang real entry into the mouth of Mascún, is now a classic and very nice to perform in a awesome as the approach, tracing the entire Real Mascún between Rodellar and the start of the coastal Otín, to scroll through landscapes of the first order. Rodellar leaving, we will Otín Road until the beginning of the coast, where the path begins to rise relentlessly to the plain high-Otin, and without taking the route to Otín, we will continue tracing the course of a few minutes to situate Mascún at the foot of the scree or quarry that falls directly from Cuca. There is no comfortable way possible for this scree, so the best we can climb round the northern base Cuca to arrive at the hill between the needle and the citadel. In total, 1 ½ hours from Rodellar. Normal

the Bellostas Cuca. Sheet.

input Crossing

Largo input. To start the actual climbing we perform on a long journey left (north side), very easy but exposed and unequipped to reach the spit - which is followed by an endless string of long-nails of the first marking the beginning of the track.

Descent flown from the top

The first long (if we ignore the passage of entry) is today, absolutely "sewn" with nails, with all its possible without forcing artificial climbing more than a loose pass free, provided us to trust the quality and strength of the pins placed there. 6b (Ae)

25 meters long The second offers a wonderful outlet for a crack in which Bavarese progressing very well and from there the problems decrease, but also the quality of the rock and equipment. Meeting in a juniper surrounded by a bunch of ribbons. the 6th. 25 meters.

The third feature is travel the short distance between the juniper and the summit, easy terrain. III + . 15 meters. Possibility of merging the latter two periods. Via

practically equipped with very ancient material, almost archeological, in some cases quite dilapidated, but this way you can climb without taking self-protective material, are recommended for meetings microfriends (black and blue aliens), the Camalot 0.75 for the fissure of the second long and cords.

Regarding his tiny top, do not miss the photo spherical top of the Cuca Bellostas made by Ignacio Ferrando.

For decline, the most direct and dizzying abseil is 50 meters flown since the last meeting of the Paris-Texas (access above) and after a painstaking care pendulum-length strings, or pathological need Machard leaves us at the start hill climbing. The easiest option is to rappel the route and retrace the journey of entry to the hill again.

Important: Due to the law of Parque Natural de la Sierra and Canyons de Guara, this area is prohibited escalation of December 1 to June 30 by respected nesting period.

As a historical document, transcribe from the original review: First
escalating Manuel Needle Bescós. June 27, 1954 .

Funeral of Manuel Bescós through the streets of Zaragoza

"I can not get out of my mind the memory of that fateful day when an unfortunate accident cut flower life was our companion and guide in mountain climbing, Manuel Bescós San Martín.

At that moment came at us strong so that his name shine with glory lyrics summit climb higher than without any. (...) Aragon The Mountaineers Climbing belonging to the Group in early March made an excursion to confirm the rumors heard on the existence of a monolith of about 70 meters called by locals the "Cuca Bellosta.

half an hour distant from the town of Rodellar (Huesca) and located in the Barranco de Mascún, like a perpetual sentinel, stands the colossal figure the monolith that bears the name of who was friend and teacher Manuel Bescós (qege).

On June 26, a group of mountaineers of Aragon moved into ravine in Mascún bus, riding the camp about 10 minutes from the needle, and proceeded to spend the night in it to start climbing the next morning.

Cuca

First along the Normal to Bellostas

Due to the inclement weather we were forced to delay the rise for several hours and so, after the goodbyes and luck wishes from colleagues, arrived at the north side of the needle at nine in the morning to face, after a horizontal crossing, the beginning of climbing the south face.

started the attack taking to overcome a slight balma to jump right in a beautiful vertical climbing, where the rock is safe and not very abundant cracks and very few dams, having to use the double rope and Siendones useful tables temper, until the beginning for close fire of about 5 meters, at the foot of that and forced posture, we had to meet, since the first of the string is running out of carabiners and ropes are not, as we were about 30 meters starting shelf.

Manuel Bescós Riglos rappelling the Pure after his first ascent

Unable to shoulder such a step would be our desire, as the rope is composed of only two, and being in a weak bracket we consider inappropriate, continuing the climb up the chimney, and soon to overcome this, we first thing with a little imagination could be called shelf and there we met and found a metal flag "Peña Guara", indicating the maximum height reached before. After a few minutes rest, we continued the ascent we encounter with a very broken wall that makes a great extent very risky climbing, and after overcoming a difficult step is based on the decomposition of the rock wall making a nod (illegible) acrobatic free climbing, reaching a new ledge located about 2 meters from the summit, where we meet. From here, the tilt angle becomes more pronounced and, quickly surpassing, we reach the top at seven o'clock.

Giving thanks to God for the successful completion of this first ascent, we hope to shine at the top with letters of the name of the glory that was our friend and teacher Manuel Bescós San Martín. (...)

Manuel Bescós San Martín. Protects the climber from heaven to rise to your top .

Material used: 2 strings of 50 meters, 30 pin, 10 pins, a witch, 40 muskets and 2 brackets. In addition to this material, recovered 15-pin. "
Orobigt Viñado

Fernando Pablo Esteban

Ex Royal Navy Boats For Sale

review and sketches I came here to talk about my book. High water trails Gallego. Manu Cordova

José Martí attribute that statement of intent to have a child, write a book and plant a tree. I from humility or conformity and was resigned to stay at another level and I had been more than satisfied with adopting a dog, blogging and plant something on my balcony each year. However, situations change and have kept one of these premises to be a complete man and now, as Paco Umbral his stellar performance in television, I came here today to talk about my book. One who falls into this blog hoping to find the usual stories about mountaineering reference while reading this post is going to feel disappointed, but wanted to be a line and a moment for something that I have put quite illusion.

Ritxi and a server when we had the idea to catalog exhaustively declines Tena Valley, putting such occurrence in a publication seemed quite distant. But now, a month after the book has been issued and the security that the authors know that is selling well, I may as co reflectively observe the work and the time spent and conclude that it was well worth .

I have to admit that Ritxi has been loaded upon his shoulders the hardest job, he had the motivation I needed to me to go exploring remote canyons observed only in aerial photography, he took the beating (virtual) to the aperture for information and he knelt alone a string of declines poisonous sacrificing leisure time and material, just for the sake of fulfilling the objective of outlining all the known and unknown in the Upper Gallego. Thanks also to him and his perseverance has published the hidden gem of the valley's throat Costechal, whose input is the cover of our book, after telling me about fifty times the phrase "forget, there's nothing" and realize once again it was he who was right.

And finally the baby was born with the endless name Hiking Water Alto Gallego. Canyoning in the Valley of Tena and Biescas Earth. The book breaks with the custom established by the guidelines of ravines. We have not made the list of gullies in a beauty contest, is a collection of the falls that exist in the valley and are the most gorgeous, most sports, the more water and also some who, with forgiveness, are crap. We have been sincere and even my fellow author who has the bar Burrowing lower than ordinary mortals, has agreed to recognize that some are not worth descent. The youngest children we have, with fewer lines and with the usual tag line of "Collectors."

Discover and raise awareness decreases as Santa Orosia open and the top of the gorge of Hell, Piniecho, Ollaza, Rimal, the Garganta del Costechal and even have had fortunate to have made the first descent of the gorge d'as Faxas just before fuer to swept by an avalanche, given a point of pride of authorship. That once people have read all the comments, even those we did not expect, lets be positive and full of satisfaction.

We also contribute a novelty in the book we think is quite useful in this type of publication. The inclusion of orthophotos and 1:10000 scale maps indicating perfect alignment and the return as well as basic information on each descent, in order to take the map into the ravine. Besides being made of polyethylene instead of paper no risk of getting wet or broken. This is what has made up the price of the book, but we think it was worth betting on this new development.

Finally, you have to decide to buy it, I hope you like it. I link blog on the side of the book in Barrabés and here in House of book for anyone who wants to make a gift.

Offering Letter Sample

New blog on the net. This time it's Manu Cordova who signs it.

http://manucordova.blogspot.com

Updated. NEW BLOG:
http://red.barrabes.com/ManuCordova/


Exceptional climber and scale, and excellent person, Manu has despite his young mountaineer enviable curriculum.

I hope the blog is now open, we will make everyone appreciate even more so its huge capacity and we mountaineering through the computer brings a small part of the drive and motivation that characterize this climber.

luck with the blog, Manu. We look forward to all the news that hang there.

Milena Velva Follando

Riglos blog launches: Massif

The massif Fils, located east of Riglos closes the discontinuous but huge barrier that opens from the Fire and that is what is generically known as Riglos Mallos. Forgotten past few years by their approach longer than for either large or small mallets, the different quality of conglomerate rock we're used to and the relative scarcity of roads, the Massif des Fils holds many surprises and however much history.

Today, it seems that this area is attracting more interest until recently. Superb views from the viewpoint of the vultures, ferrata of Cubilillo the and historical data that this massive Rabada and Navarro opened the first and the last of its tracks are arguments for this approach by climbing walls or something, this is totally recommended to come see one of those incredible sunsets Riglos.

are several areas where climbers have this mountain divided into sectors: Circus

Clerics (face east) and north side :


Beautiful and quiet corner, where a path runs through this area by weaknesses that provides the wall, usually by cracking, spurs and dihedral open almost all the mid 70's by Jesus Valles, Fernando Orús, Alfonso del Corral and Ambrosio García-Izquierdo and others. A funny name adorns this area, as the Fissure Carlitos, named for being open on November 23, 1975, day coronation as King Juan Carlos of Bourbon.

Peña Don Justo :

Conquered in 1947 by a rope led by Angel Ceron, the name of the rock responds to the dedication that the opening was made to Don Justo Garasa, villager very dear climbers to provide accommodation for them at home. In this rock climber performed Rabada-Navarro opened its first route, the route of dihedrals (1959) and is also precisely where this modest monolith Alberto Rabada opened its largest mall in one way or rock, with a total of four: the west (with Pepe Diaz), the mayor (with Julian Vincent and Pepe Diaz), that of the dihedral (with Ernesto Navarro) and the Laughter (with Ernesto Navarro Ursi Down).

In 2007, Tono and Gregory Carasol Villarig at first and two with both Angel López "Cintero" in the second part, opened the final route of the Rock: the route Villarig Alba, the left the path of laughter.

Screw and Bolt False:

The conglomerate stratigraphy Fils, alternating highly erodible sandy areas and other harsh, giving a look full of ceilings and cornices to monoliths. The imagination of climbers to cast the rest and named as screws to a couple of small rocks to the south of the Fils.

Rabada The last track and Navarro (via Miguel Vidal, recorded by him in the movie Always United ) was held at the False Screw.

Encouragement When Stressed

Fils Ravier to Tozal of Mallo: repeats and more repetitions

Tozal of Mallo: first attempts to
Ravier Tozal of Mallo: opening and sketches

First repetition, which turned out to be: roped-Bellefon Despiau

August 1957 Four months after the original route of the French or was opened, two other climbers distinguished Gauls are driven by the same path as his predecessors to make the first occurrence of the way, it's about Bellefon Patrice Raymond and Despiau . Because summer is at its peak, the descent from the gap they do not ski as Ravier and company, but walking while enjoying the spectacle that Ordesa offers from above.

Despite the weight of their bivouac equipment, can be said to go quite light because, thanks to the sketches that have given the aperturistas know that the material charge is not excessive because the road has virtually been equipped with 35 nails all along the road, some fixed ropes, carabiners and even temper in the steps involved. With these projections, Despiau Bellefon and prepare to walk through, selecting some pythons sighted so that they may be needed and start climbing.

After some hesitation on the route to follow as the first long are surprisingly unequipped, to reach the Chimney feature Bellefon can overcome in a clear passage through opposition at that time was still possible to do without slipping irretrievably down as today. A little further up in the most demanding long, which until now was a reasonable suspicion rather than become evident, after 6 long have not found any python and everything seems to indicate that they are making the first repeat as they believed that, whoever has done before, has taken all the material left by his countrymen. The following

long finally have a reason to rejoice: they find the first bolt all the way, but soon after the situation is complicated by just blocking the strings with little clear material, the ropes binding of several previous falls and not entirely convinced of being on the road rather than the references that give some brands of despitonaje, Despiau is forced to risk their lives a very risky maneuver: a dubious digs nail breaks the encordaje and tied a rope to hoist the backpack that had previously attached to the nail, there is a few meters to try to reach a ledge above notes and goes on the adventure, tied with rope to a bad python backpack as only insurance. Finally, if all goes well and you have to climb Bellefon collecting rings because the cords are not run-not to mention a drop without further consequences, finally can meet both with the shock in the body in the bivouac before entering the chimney.

next day, without further delay travel to the top of the chimney where they are in doubt who will have left those walls unequipped. *************

few months ago ...

First repetition: Rabada roped-Montaner-Bescós

May 1957: A month after the Original or via the French were open, three climbers illustrious Aragonese directed from the Prairie Ordesa to perform the first repetition of the road, it's about Rabada Alberto, Rafael and José Antonio Bescós Montaner. For them, the opening of the southern Tozal has dealt a severe blow. They had been wanting to go to make that climb, but let them pass the time and ended up ahead of French climber.

This time, barely able to climb some 80 meters due to weather conditions, but did not leave empty. In just a couple of long, were recovered from the wall with utter disbelief several pins, some carabiners and stirrups. It was necessary to return to that kind of "Ali Baba's cave" from which came the ultra-free French material.

few weeks after the withdrawal, between 20 and 22 June 1957, just before returning to Ordesa, and Rafael Alberto Montaner Rabada open the Seron-Millán with Pepe and Angel Díaz López "Cintero" beginning in this way to terminate old projects hanging in a while. Apparently, experience with Ravier roped in Tozal has earned them not to be suspended indefinitely pending the tracks and to rush to complete projects.

June 1957: Aragon the rope back to the track and go back after the first long, come to the first serious difficulties (the dihedral and chimney feature.) In the words of José Antonio Bescós, " received as manna unique overhangs several lengths of rope, equipped with shiny pins abandoned by our predecessors in clear display of its buoyant economy. Logically, the answer to our self-sufficient and waste scarce resources to size was leaving the way absolutely clean. "

Thus ended the next day the road with more than 70 pins (the carrying and the 35 who recovered) and discovered the return that would put France as a destination for your next climbing. Also explained in that effort by the clean-climbing which Aragon takes 22 hours (5 more than the French) to make that climb.

Schutzenschnur 4187 Remarks

Tozal of Mallo (1957) Ravier

Easter in 1957, a group of five French climbers crosses with skis the gap to reach Ordesa Rolando and, after leaving their tables near the top of Tozal, continue down to the meadow to stay in the old house where they will spend the night Viu. The next day, rising Carriata made to the base of Tozal where they prepare for one of the most important openings that until then had been made in Aragon.

Jean Ravier, Claude Dufourmantelle, Marcel Kahn, Claude Noël Blotti Jaccoux and form the group of climbers who are beating the walls of the imposing south face of Tozal of Mallo. Their presence is ignored from the depths of Ordesa Prairie, where no suspected that there was someone climbing until night falls and the front light betrays its presence at the beginning of a long chimney that carries top.

In the first large follow the route taken by José Santacana in their attempt to make the first, but where it was diverted to the "Plaza Catalunya", the French climbers and continue the direct vertical path that had been proposed to make . After the lies of George A. Gavin and attempts Santacana, the French found another surprise: a 100 meters from the base, the mysterious initials "CI" are engraved on the wall.

After the first long Santacana tours and the first step of commitment is the great crash of the "chimney feature" as it is known since then. Based on pins and leaving fixed rope, artificial able to overcome in a step that has now become quite polished by the passage of the climbers. After that first difficult step, they still have a good section of crashes with the rush to finish the day.

next day, leaving them explore the fire that easily, they overcome to reach the top. In just 17 hours of actual climbing complete the tour, after leaving the track practically equipped with 35 pins of the nearly 100 that placed, carabiners, ropes and an abutment fixed.

probably still be given to the opening of the importance Ravier actually had on the development of climbing in Aragon. Although you can not say q ue local openings previously collected were unimportant, it is fair to say that the year 1957 marks a turning point in the achievements of that generation of climbers from Aragon to check that escalating due to the style and media of the French neighbors, on the one hand, the Aragonese open to the outside within the modest possibilities offered its economy, making its major in the French Pyrenees. On the other hand, begin to design other types of channels characterized by large vertical search, hotlines and difficult paths, giving rise to the great classics of all enjoy today. Deputy

two excellent reviews / sketch of the Mallo Ravier to Tozal learned Onaclimb and Caranorte . First

repetitions Ravier to Tozal of Mallo: read here.

Partial Tank Dish Calculation

Tozal of Mallo: attempts and untruths (1944-1956)

Perhaps more than any other summit, the toponymy of the Mallo Tozal expresses an exact description of what we will find before him, a quick and dirty translation of the Aragonese-without all the nuances that have the terms "Tozal" and "mall" - would come to call this place the "peak of the wall." Other meanings that once was given as "the throne of the devil" or "altar" today are less widespread among the mountaineers, though still used in the brochures for the most romantic expression.

of more or less Herculean appearance depending on the situation of the observer, seems wide from the entrance to the valley and more streamlined as we go upstream Arazas internment, "the great wall welcomes visitors, tourists and mountaineers who come to the valley of Ordesa, overwhelming everyone for being so used to his presence.

In 1953, the great French Pyrenean Robert Ollivier published the second volume of his famous guide to the Pyrenees in which he gives details of the first ascent of Mallo Tozal. In it, without too many technical details about the difficulties of the road, says the escalation made po r Gavín Jorge Antonio José Luis Rodríguez and the impressive south face of Tozal of Mallo on 21 August 1944. This first ascent, which was reported by the same Gavín to Ollivier, soon proved totally unfounded and completely false. In this regard, it is very interesting to read the comment made in 2007 by José Antonio Bescós Mountaineers in the Yearbook of Aragon spent 50 years of self-it-first ascent of the south face of Tozal of Mallo.

Aragon says the veteran climber, "the guide Editóse Mr. Ollivier at the start of the 50 and receiving the first copies of it in circles Mountaineers of Aragon in Zaragoza, the caught a whiff of a story Chinese with regard to these two scales, for although Mr. Perez / Abbeys ( well JA Bescós called Jorge A. Gavin, as explained earlier in this article could not remember his name, but would any of those names sounded ) was remotely known as mountaineering, in any case he could be considered capable of performing a scaled as described. In addition, his companion, whose name escapes me, was not known by anyone who was questioned about the case. Equally all the hikers (very few at that time) who camped on the dates indicated in Ordesa (what ever!) Or made by the massive mountain had not found anyone in their ascents, no one heard the most comment on some activities at least as extraordinary for its time. Indicated completion of the investigation, it was the wise conclusion that our good friend Robert " it had gotten bent " as we say today, but in those glorious years of prudery, prudishness, correction and rationing, it only had not told the truth unseemly. "

phone not only plasma Jorge A. Ollivier Gavin "first." In 1952, as recorded Jesús María Rodríguez Pozo Ordesa in your phone, Paths of Stone, Gavin "an article signed in the journal of the then Federation Pyrenaica Navarra Basque Mountain, which recounted his first ascent in 1944 of the Great Wall . "As noted in the sketch of the guide Ollivier, apparently Gavín noticed more in the fissure Picazo in the fireplace to draw Ravier opening your imagination that never existed.

As curious and mocking note-for her part, of these claims starts without touching the wall Gavín, Christian Ravier Ordesa opened in 2008, along with Elijah and Alex Martin Corpuz, a way to right the Coop Rabada-Navarro, baptizing very humor as "Gavin binoculars" in which the escalation review states that "Ordesa walls are conducive to delusions."

not until 1954 when the first attempt, this real-time to win the attractive south wall. José Santacana long climbs the first of what will be a few years after the Ravier, but looking for the easiest route, avoid the left above the crashes that are presented, achieving in one shot to get more horizontally since this is called "Plaza Catalunya". From here, and if you try to throw some more long vertical reality imposes itself and decide to end the escalation, the attempt now being called "crossing Santacana" and easiest way to access the Plaza de Catalunya and the roads that pass through it.

Barely a year after opening the Gómez-Khan, the first road that ends at a summit in the Tozal. To this end, the climbers who are climbing the path name to ram this, starting to do near the mid-wall, entering from the side Carriata Circus. Although Rabada and Pepe Diaz opened the bottom, now this way almost exclusively performed as a way out as Despiau, the Anglada-Civis or Aliga.

Due to the difficulties of this peak is concentrated in south-face the imposing of Tozal mall "- the Gómez-Khan, without taking even a point of its pioneer status, it is considered the first climb Tozal of the Mallo, giving that honor to Ravier.