equipment, retrofitting, unequipped, restorations. Needle  |
| "unequipped? "Sobreequipamientos? |
The controversial issue of retrofitting or desesquipamientos is not new, just review old magazines or publications to verify that there is always a point of confrontation and discussion about the route of a new route that takes advantage of old, the amount of material notice, the material is removed, if equipped at the top, if you open from the bottom after a preparation of the road ... The topic of discussion, as I said, is nothing new; rather it is old and recurrent, but for one reason or another never ceases to be fashionable. However, that evidence of bolts (or "plagabolts", as can be read somewhere) attract people. The only thing I intend with this paper is to show my opinion in which the uploading is more important than the fact of going up and collect certain actions that have occurred in the mallets.
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| 1964. First unequipped in Riglos |
First of all, I will here outline an opinion on equipment that taught me when I started climbing and I consider the most appropriate. In short, there is nothing new, just read the
Tyrol Declaration of Best Practices in Mountain Sports . It assumes that the openings (or equipment, if any) dotting the route of a style or personality that must be respected. The route and fixed equipment is part of the personality of the road, that is, some consider the expansion as an unethical action and who sees it as necessary and without any negative connotation to the quality of the track. I do not get to evaluate what is best simply to say that, in very general terms, and speaking of openings, the amount of chisels / spits / parabolts placed us provide information about the capabilities of the opening and / or on its ethical approach to climbing. I repeat, there are thousands of exceptions, here only speak in general terms.
together from above, things change. The computer does not has wanted to play, something reprehensible but understandable, and decides to leave the track ready, leaving security in the best possible place for further linking. It's another way to do it, widely criticized for years, but today has become the most popular and suitable for sport climbing routes.
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| perhaps need a restoration |
The problem arises when trying to combine the two styles, traditional sports in the same way. If a road has been opened in the traditional style, as normal for this style is still respected and climbing equipment, not being an obstacle to that if insurance does not do honor to his name (no longer secure) is replaced by a yes that functions How many have worn slings runner, how many have rusty chisels plated, how many nails we point out rappelling? I do not see anything changing moral conflict for several decades a halyard hearth by a ring of dyneema. This is not to justify an open bar to the replacement of anchors, quite the contrary. The commitment
, and related to it, the exhibition-is a factor inherent in traditional climbing to a greater or lesser extent and thus should be maintained, but it's a shame to see how great classic climbs become real crappy-way not have a minimum of "maintenance." Also, one should be very respectful to the sport when opening routes in the vicinity of traditional climbing routes, and that doing so we eliminate any possibility of compromise.
Moreover, we are getting used too to see how wielding the security argument is destroy traditional way without any modesty. We all want to live out a path that's clear, but we must be humble and recognize that if we can not be escalated without affecting our physical, you'd better stay out of it. One way is not the property of openness, but it is understood that, out of respect and moral authority to represent, should have their approval to undertake substantial changes. It also happens that disability or need some climbers have required additional insurance added to those already found. It may be understandable when the circumstances have overtaken us, but expressly adapt a path to our capabilities (sobreequipamiento) and not our abilities on the track (training and experience) no longer a sloppy shortcut that makes us specialized climbers mediocrizadas way. Make no mistake, there is no universal law that legitimizes a 100% safe escalation based sobreequipamiento and if that right there come into confrontation with the legitimate right of a climber want to climb that route with the same commitment to openness.
Not all controversial. There are actions that have been conducted with a broad consensus and acceptance as the restoration of Ram
Arrabal, the North
Puro, the
Cintero the Inuxente Bixente the Ursi ... but in other cases not everyone has agreed.
Edito
(ene'11) : "Arnaldo" quite rightly points out this paragraph with an interesting blog entry
Retroroc . "
I can not say about something I do not know, and the truth is that I have climbed these routes after its refurbishment, but I doubt any of them hold anything close to its original character. Then I do not understand why that consensus and acceptance so widespread ... well, yes I understand ... . " Do not let it down.
Article
also recommend climbing Armand Ballart views on his blog Therapy Vertical on the same subject. Begins: "
rule, the walls and climbing routes, are a wealth of knowledge that must be cared for and respected, otherwise we lose all its character. Formerly, only experienced climbers reached the office of openness. Now, anyone who can handle a drill, can be recreated by the vertical left their mark for posterity. So far right, everyone has the freedom to do what you like, provided they do not distort the spirit of a place. There is an ethic in the atmosphere, some of the tune, others not. It is the grace of love to climb the walls, do it with enthusiasm, respect and a minimum education rules. - The Case of Fire via ferrata. "Ferratización" and silence
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| the historic step of the way, become |
ferrata
How far can justify sobreequipamiento? He who justifies add some more sheets may not look bad when the equipment we get out of hand. Today, from the garden to the tip does not matter, the excessive (what is not when you step on a classic?) Ensures ferrata steps and down climbing to anyone who wants to go through there. Eye to the seriousness of the matter: it is the primary way of Riglos open no more and no less than 75 years before Jean Arlaud Fire in the flagship mall of traditional climbing, which has only one way open from above, and is equipped with cable I'm not sure what justification. Even the beautiful step of the way (this is no longer Arlaud) bordering the tip Matthew in an impressive aerial journey was ferrata climbing at preventing those who want to do Is not that a terrible injustice to the history of this route ? Edito
(mar'11) : Public comment here Philip Cherry:
last week, taking an excursion Fire, Remove all of the ferrata of Fire, remaining exactly as before. The material is not mine, so I hope that their owners could let me know where you left off. If not, I'll leave within a certain time in the shelter. some do not seek controversy, simply reporting a fact. - The case of José Antonio Sanz to Frechin . Sobreequipamiento and minimum controversy.
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Excess of security | or unethical? |
try not to repeat too much. A classical way, fall into oblivion and that the overnight is sobreequipada and corrected original itinerary. Occur just a few moans, hands to his head and searching for answers that do not come, but when the truth becomes a way in which no weekend need a rope to the scroll, dedicated a Difference item to "New José Antonio Sanz" and a multitude of godly in blogs and forums find that 40 years later, became fashionable thanks to the equipment. It's a fact: parabolts attract climbers.
- The Case of Direct to the brim. Sobreequipamiento without permission of the openings, controversial and restoration.
classical pathway. Open in a very difficult and quite exposed to harsh winter conditions. Across the road only 48 remained after the opening of 2.5cm long chisels, many of them placed in the last over in very difficult conditions, "
Open last throughout the visor it was hard. It was something juggling. I avoided all means use the burin. When I got to the apex of the overhang was night and the rock was wet with rain. I climbed the dark. My boots were very stiff sole and no gum cooked. It was what we had. "Following the opening, Antonio Gomez Bohorquez" Sevi "is against adding more equipment with the words"
hope that those who want to repeat the route have sufficient mountaineering mindset to not add more chisels. Thus, the Direct to the brim does not depreciate in Spain and we have another path beauty and difficulty. "Despite this, 30 years later, the satellite is equipped" to do in sports "and consequently climbers begin to go so much more frequent than before. Two years later, the aperturistas
approved restoration road from which, for now, there is no further information.
- The case of Seron-Millán the Ram. Middle retrofitting without controversy. Complete restoration back to leave an opening, another appears later against.
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| Was it better to leave this way forever? |
I live in first person because the idea of \u200b\u200brestoration was born of me. It saddened me to see how, from the retrofitting of the top, bottom, was doomed to forget and to all warlike cordate trying to upload from the ground get off at the first meeting. We want to do everything so ultracorrecta: Angel Lopez asked permission to "Cintero," promoter opening, which gives us, we enter from below, by substituting parabolt chisel (not always), slings replace old with new and do not add more expansions. For two months I do nothing but work in this way, step seven old fear and, ultimately, the path is restored: locks the exposure and the difficulty that we are climbing from below, but at least now used for insurance something. And then you see a comment by Pepe Diaz in the directory Mountaineers Aragon said that he asked no one and that's enough of sports channels. It is my heart sinks to your feet. Everyone is free to protest about what you like, but then I wonder what it means Pepe Diaz for "sport" and where are your comments against the facilities (these other "sports") of roads in the he also participated in the opening and the southeast of the Red Needle West or Cored or, what the fuck, the top of the Seron-Millán. I doubt if the refusal is given to restore the bottom, which makes no sense and I should have protested the same for the top, or have assumed on our part to obtain permission from Cintero implicitly also received theirs.
- Several cases of open channels and re-equipped in traditional style in sport mode for the same opening .
are many and I will not go into too much detail, some like, others not. In some ways the retrofits are performed immediately after opening, is the recent case of Roger's grandfather
the Fire, and others may take years until parabolts flourish, as happened with the Torrijos to the brim. Nor do I have an opinion regarding these activities. Just an interesting article enlazaré Retroroc the blog called elastic
Ethics think you can take that one over. Indeed, the presentation of the blog is glorious, a punishment that does not happen to me before for my "
find information on everything you do not care. Photos outdated, poor quality videos and reviews of old roads not want to do. " Magnificent.
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| precariousness at the top of the Pure |
- Several cases of classic routes in the process of misery and neglect of the climbers cutrez. Indifference of climbers with ruinous insurance, theft of material.
Pure Bluff, secured by the same three coffins strip for years. I raise the January 4, 2011, after almost two years without coming to this summit and I find that a nail has gone, another is moving dangerously and a third is well established, but overlooks four fingers, not knowing what portion of the coffin is nailed . Mail command to the FAM to give notice
post in the Caracoles and privately some acquaintances tell me that it takes a while as well. I was stunned Already known and no one has warned anyone? In the FAM
still have not received a reply .
Edito
19ene11 : For unofficial channels, I find that it is already working on it. Edito 15mar11: However, this link reality shows that have not yet done anything.  |
| | Pettiness Galletas in
Chimney Cookies. Small halyards that mark the existence of rock bridges that whoever scales, and can quickly see the stone bridge thread. The last time I climbed, I saw that someone had left their slings threaded for the benefit of the following cordate. It was. Some of the following cordate took real advantage and it was so petty as to take half a meter on each sling stone bridge as spoils of war. At least, let the halyards.
