" Les put in history: the Aragonese looking to climb the north face of the Eiger in the Swiss Alps, which was then the more frightening escalation in the world. And they were at 300 meters so. A fierce storm, the physical exhaustion and extreme cold ended their lives. It had Luis Mayor, partner of the expedition, the last hours of life and Navarro Rabada "
Murcia / Via Alberto Rabada the Ram (RIGL): review and sketches
At Christmas of 1964 in the village of Riglos was a curious picture, like a huge living crib it were, a Christmas star three feet long, decorated the landscape of the town while the party lasted. Christmas star that was promoted by Ursi and Carmelo Royo Down by a system of fissures that ascend the west wall of the Piso, which was then crossed the road just Seron-Millán and his deep and feature fireplace.
star placement was recorded by Miguel Vidal, giving rise to a short film called " A star in the escalation " that Vidal himself tell details: " A Cruchaga Felix, President of the section Swimming Centre Mountain Helios, came to Bethlehem in a Riglos. Down Ursicinus were commissioned, Carmelo Royo, Angel Lopez and myself, I offered to film. We had to install a star high enough and install a crib at his feet. Enough people came and then sang Christmas carols. In short, it was a real Christmas party and foreshadowing. Fairly common people came to watch this. It seemed a very nice, very nice so that we set up a crib in the village. This film was very successful there in Riglos when it happened. "
That means laying up to star in a pair of long, remained unfinished. Ursi opened the following year the carnivalesque by the center of Ram and soon after he moved to the Valley of Tena, leaving other cordate continuity solution to the top of the mall by the route had begun.
Miguel Angel and José Luis García Gallego
arrived to the early days of 1976 and appears in an important Riglos climber and at that time. Miguel Ángel García Gallego, "from Murcia, and has excelled in the English vertical panorama by various activities: 21 years conducted the first winter of the West Orange (who previously had taken the deaths of Patxi Berrio, Ramon Ortiz and Jose Luis Arrabal in two different accidents), the Murcia of the Mallo Tozal and Directísimo Winter of 74 a year later, are the most important activities, regardless of the very important climbs and expeditions to come after, including the first route opened by foreigners in Yosemite, the Mediterranean.
Along with his brother Jose Luis, over twelve days January 1976 they opened the way for the west of Ram, finally completing a bivouac-including wall-the first ascent, leaving the road equipped. The original name of the track, Alberto Rabada , whom Miguel Ángel García Gallego so admires, was overshadowed by the fame of "Murcia", since from the early days was called the road to Murcia or "Murcia" as now known worldwide.
Bottom of the path from the fourth meeting.
At this point, it is fair recognize that in the names riglera and there are few spaces with the name or alias of Alberto Rabada (Edil): the way Alberto Rabada (Murcia), route Edil and Red Needle Edil Justo de la Peña, the Felix Méndez better known as the Fire Rabada-Navarro, same case as in northern Puro, also known as Rabada-Navarro), or even confirm, the cornice surrounding the Ram Edil 20 meters the summit. So in order to distinguish this way of the rest of "rabadás" is a logical consequence the name that has been successful in this journey has been that of "Murcia".
Miguel Angel García Gallego Riglos again only 4 months after the opening of the Albert Rabada to reopen the rift Gallego-Carrillo to the fire and again with his brother José Luis for the opening of the Mediterranean also in the Fire, this time in June 1981. It was the only opening Murcia Riglos in those years because in 1978 Sevi and Lozano also left their mark on the visor Direct. At this point, I note the taste of the Murcia of the time for the winter starts, beating authentic records retention wall. Review road :
Final 6 th long after successfully passing
6c
L1: Characteristic dihedral riglero, with some trips between parables in easy area. The more complicated steps are well protected.
6b L2 : Long fun to crack with two complicated steps in a small little roof that is drawn from the right and another step at the entrance to the meeting. 6a +
L3: Sequence of cracks tending diagonally to the left at first and then straight. Long and disfrutón. The 6th L4
: De bolus bolus abundant following brands of magnesium. the 6th
L5: Another over a long song, but it begins to collapse in a subtle but merciless. Ignoring a former anchor at the beginning of long and easier to search the area (magnesium of the previous cordate will tell). 6a + . L6
: Key Largo. Diagonally to the left to find the belly of 6c, but very securely bound in step, even in A0. Stirrup highly recommended for those who go right on the grade. Final long hard, blunt and polished, but without problems in A0. 6c
L7: Long vertical step at the end of the long drive with an old sling savior for anyone who wants to ratchet. 6b
L8: Hang out with the right tendency to overcome a belly and ride to the top. Mount rescue ring meeting or a juniper few meters above. 6b +
And so up the brave. Alex Huber, in just:
Editorial: Chema in the comments recommended the option of linking lengths: L2 + L3 (about 65 m) with care to friction because it is bias and should be put on tapes and lengthening L4 + L5, the best option, about 60 m great.
The September 7, 1975, 22 years after his Tread summit was the first time, the third pure knowledge of the four paths that cross each of its four sides. The rope made by Valentine Asensio, Gonzalo Prado "Lalo" Garcia-Izquierdo and Ambrose manage to complete a difficult and laborious path that runs along the inside of the Pure, back where you rappel from the top. Had been 15 years since Rabada and Navarro ended the north of Pure - without any opening was completed in perhaps the most symbolic of Riglos mall. In 1980, Fernando Cobo managed to finish in 12 awful long exposed rock climbing another old aspirations Riglos usual, the Helios satellite, which covers the entire outer face of the Pure.
Third
along
Cintero
The aperturistas climbing the east face of the mall in five long, the last of them shared in the end with normal route to open at the time M. Bescós, Rabada and "Cintero." It is precisely Ángel López Martínez "Cintero" , which is followed like a shadow the trite tagline of "the-survivor-of-the-mythical-roped-who-won-the-Puro" - who spent climbing and put their name on the track, and MD cotándola (VI-Graduation in time, with several sections of A2). The first guidelines recommended carrying scrap metal precision: mediums, wooden blocks washboard nails all measures, sheet stoppers recoverable and to progress through the "cluster of medium quality, very smooth and difficult to nail."
Via Cintero from the hill of Pure
After this opening, the years go by and it seems that this rise will attract many climbers, climbing the pure, preferably inclined in the normal way, to a lesser extent, by way of the north side. The rock quality, poor insurance and the overall difficulty of the road is not good letters of introduction to the pretenders to the mall. This trip seems doomed to oblivion, but in 1996 two excellent climbers and are Chiro Sanchez and Javier Arnaud able to put the red dot, among many other ways in Riglos as Villar Luis Picazo and the Fire Micomicón to Piso, the doe to Frechin ... the difficulty of giving Cintero 6a +, degree today has risen to 6b. In the words of Chiro:
Current equipment
" All these ascents were made with the utmost respect for schedules and openings, with a very strict ethics, without installing any expansion and placing insurance only mobile guards (rock bridges, pins, stoppers or friends). The idea was to release the first of the long rope, putting the necessary protections for free, without using artificial climbing whenever possible. "
We have to wait until 2008, with restoration by Toño Carasol anchors for this route start getting more regularly to visitors. Parabolt some strategically located in the hard steps, a small touch on the itinerary and meetings bombproof attract more climbers achieved today what could the ancient and limited equipment a few years ago. Retrofitted on the road, Ambrosio García-Izquierdo commented as follows: " The earth spins and spins and the destination seems to be in the same rhythm. I'm not sure why, but lately it seems that the mallets are home this summer (hot) I enjoyed repeatedly climbs to my dear mallets. Carasol Toño One day he called me with the idea of \u200b\u200bretooling the way Angel Lopez (serious and committed), with only a half dozen repetitions. I repeated some ways re-equipped for it, as the northern pure and not left with a deep feeling of wellness, recognizing what was the track and it is now. Admittedly the change. Discuss Valentin Gonzalo Prado Asensio and the idea of \u200b\u200bmaking up the path, to which no objection. I confess that many a night thinking about whether we were doing the right thing by replacing parabolt mediums and chisels. The good work of Tono and Manolo, who went up the road as we opened, he gave the trial to re-equip properly. So at 33 years 1 day (as convicts) I am with Toño for those dollars, what will tell a parent their children? The road has been wonderful, a jewel. Are memories of the first ascent as a symbol, material to use 10 tapes long. Alpine flavor. Review on page Inazio.Salu2 Tito. .
Final
long
second
Cintero now done in 3 lengths and can end on a powerful meeting that marks the first of abseiling of Pure and may reach the top following the cable easily. However, we must warn the "paraboltoinómanos" that after the restoration, the itinerary has not been, fortunately, as a way of sports, the rock quality, especially in the last over, it remains highly questionable and some of the bridges of rock that we will find are rather precarious. It is advisable not to go very right in the degree and some experience in rock riglera to enjoy this climb.
Among the recommendations and warnings for those who want to make the track, would touch on two points. The usual crowds time to go to Pure negatively affect the Cintero for two reasons: the first is that unless we are the first to ascend the Pure, which is normal than who is rappelling bother us our climb, as the road goes along the same line of abseiling, climbing preclude reaching the ropes in tension of who descends. The second reason is that, large or small, is inevitable while throwing stones at finishing climb the chimney of the Pure, who happens to be dangerous for climbing or rappelling below. Bear that in mind and choose hours, days or times when we are not going to find many people going through the chimney of the Pure.