Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Partial Tank Dish Calculation

Tozal of Mallo: attempts and untruths (1944-1956)

Perhaps more than any other summit, the toponymy of the Mallo Tozal expresses an exact description of what we will find before him, a quick and dirty translation of the Aragonese-without all the nuances that have the terms "Tozal" and "mall" - would come to call this place the "peak of the wall." Other meanings that once was given as "the throne of the devil" or "altar" today are less widespread among the mountaineers, though still used in the brochures for the most romantic expression.

of more or less Herculean appearance depending on the situation of the observer, seems wide from the entrance to the valley and more streamlined as we go upstream Arazas internment, "the great wall welcomes visitors, tourists and mountaineers who come to the valley of Ordesa, overwhelming everyone for being so used to his presence.

In 1953, the great French Pyrenean Robert Ollivier published the second volume of his famous guide to the Pyrenees in which he gives details of the first ascent of Mallo Tozal. In it, without too many technical details about the difficulties of the road, says the escalation made po r Gavín Jorge Antonio José Luis Rodríguez and the impressive south face of Tozal of Mallo on 21 August 1944. This first ascent, which was reported by the same Gavín to Ollivier, soon proved totally unfounded and completely false. In this regard, it is very interesting to read the comment made in 2007 by José Antonio Bescós Mountaineers in the Yearbook of Aragon spent 50 years of self-it-first ascent of the south face of Tozal of Mallo.

Aragon says the veteran climber, "the guide Editóse Mr. Ollivier at the start of the 50 and receiving the first copies of it in circles Mountaineers of Aragon in Zaragoza, the caught a whiff of a story Chinese with regard to these two scales, for although Mr. Perez / Abbeys ( well JA Bescós called Jorge A. Gavin, as explained earlier in this article could not remember his name, but would any of those names sounded ) was remotely known as mountaineering, in any case he could be considered capable of performing a scaled as described. In addition, his companion, whose name escapes me, was not known by anyone who was questioned about the case. Equally all the hikers (very few at that time) who camped on the dates indicated in Ordesa (what ever!) Or made by the massive mountain had not found anyone in their ascents, no one heard the most comment on some activities at least as extraordinary for its time. Indicated completion of the investigation, it was the wise conclusion that our good friend Robert " it had gotten bent " as we say today, but in those glorious years of prudery, prudishness, correction and rationing, it only had not told the truth unseemly. "

phone not only plasma Jorge A. Ollivier Gavin "first." In 1952, as recorded Jesús María Rodríguez Pozo Ordesa in your phone, Paths of Stone, Gavin "an article signed in the journal of the then Federation Pyrenaica Navarra Basque Mountain, which recounted his first ascent in 1944 of the Great Wall . "As noted in the sketch of the guide Ollivier, apparently Gavín noticed more in the fissure Picazo in the fireplace to draw Ravier opening your imagination that never existed.
As curious and mocking note-for her part, of these claims starts without touching the wall Gavín, Christian Ravier Ordesa opened in 2008, along with Elijah and Alex Martin Corpuz, a way to right the Coop Rabada-Navarro, baptizing very humor as "Gavin binoculars" in which the escalation review states that "Ordesa walls are conducive to delusions."

not until 1954 when the first attempt, this real-time to win the attractive south wall. José Santacana long climbs the first of what will be a few years after the Ravier, but looking for the easiest route, avoid the left above the crashes that are presented, achieving in one shot to get more horizontally since this is called "Plaza Catalunya". From here, and if you try to throw some more long vertical reality imposes itself and decide to end the escalation, the attempt now being called "crossing Santacana" and easiest way to access the Plaza de Catalunya and the roads that pass through it.

Barely a year after opening the Gómez-Khan, the first road that ends at a summit in the Tozal. To this end, the climbers who are climbing the path name to ram this, starting to do near the mid-wall, entering from the side Carriata Circus. Although Rabada and Pepe Diaz opened the bottom, now this way almost exclusively performed as a way out as Despiau, the Anglada-Civis or Aliga.
Due to the difficulties of this peak is concentrated in south-face the imposing of Tozal mall "- the Gómez-Khan, without taking even a point of its pioneer status, it is considered the first climb Tozal of the Mallo, giving that honor to Ravier.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Trzeci Rzym Drugie Hollywood

Gorgs - Mayencos 2009



Link to news here.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Stitching Anarkali Frock

The Puro North: in honor of the truth (2 ª part)

The North Puro (see sketch ) , completed in 1960 by Alberto Rabada and Ernesto Navarro had his first attempt a year earlier. That time was with a young Gregory Rabada Villarig. Read first part
.

The story told is the same, but told by the two protagonists. The narrated text in 1960 Rabada is written in green and 2003 of Villarig blue.

..........
Part 2:

Alberto Rabada " Climbing stirrups (Villarig) stood again in the final nail in good trick! Another above helps you finish the delicate step reaching a "cornisín" from which more than a small right niche .
Villarig
Gregorio " I leave the meeting again for free, step along the nail on the entosta I'd like a mess and obviously I stopped the fall. I still and just before reaching tiny dams nail a witch (made where I worked) of an inch is good, put a bracket and since he came quietly to the dam-shaped orange and the belly step "


................

AR:" (Villarig above) several "pancillas" lower ratio and I get the voices to I prepare. Tra s my chemequeos in which baptism as "Panza's Lament" and my struggle to find where to have passed the "pancillas" in question, came to a good ledge to a few feet below my companion, which I see comfortably ensconced in a better still "

GV:" From here I do not know what happens, the fact is that I enter a field that I find it easy, I'm always climbing from the vessel wall by left to the point that I forget that there are nails. I see a gap to drive in the center of the ram and I suddenly realize that I have many feet, some twenty, without spiking from the witch, that the running goes, but effects of the fall does not work and then the nail entosta already endured the tug . "

Here Villarig is telling that, despite this spread now done in two long, he just put three insurance: bad nail that held the fall, the Witch and Melilla abutment in the center riveting
ram.

GV: " The chemequeos and difficulty locating where to have passed the" pancillas "his companion tells Bada Ra due to the nail is in the middle, the string is logically the center and he is going to pass through the center until you approach me and hear us and say that I have done almost everything to the left .

AR ............... " As the protagonist of the story, I have not had the imponderables, this time is my young companion, who manages to upset with the projects that started the tour by this wall, because despite us come up hither and bivouac equipment "bombilleo" in a not too heavy but annoying backpack, suddenly, it was agreed that has left the bathroom faucet open. After making sure this is true and that no effect had been injured in his involuntary return "I'm more relaxed and began the descent .
Routinely
Villarig question - What time is it? -.- The three - Rabada answer was already studying how to solve the next long, probably going to leave them near the top. Villarig not think time had passed so quickly and said: - eh ... because we have to get off -.
Rabada not understand anything, "we are well " says " to stay long hours and night sure to the ground " Goito answer to what " I know we got down, but not the train .

GV "(Rabada) a tad angry and though he understands nothing in the end realizes that his situation is not the same as mine. (...) I am a nineteen year old kid just turned (...) Missing the train meant that your parents do not get to see you at night, there was no phone number to warning and that would target all night, every Monday morning and will get between one and two in the afternoon, that is, that besides the shock, disgust that caused it may be that you skinned or, in a minor key, that prohibit you out and if you still have breath, on Tuesday had to face the chief of staff of the factory and explain why you were not at work. Here are the facts and reasons Edil summarizes with the phrase "my young companion agreed that the tap is left open ." The bivouac of the material and "bombilleo" (referring to food) must refer to another escalation or she did with Navarro for what I wanted to go if you ever thought about doing bivouac ? .

From the location of contour the inside of Pure and displayed a few feet above the hill of stone built Puro. down climbing to abseiling and from there begin the descent.

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July 1960

AR: " The first Sunday in July I'm back in Riglos, but this time my partner is Villarig Navarro and that I could not match any previous Sunday and now he's doing merits to be given the vacation days needed to go to the Alps "

GV:" It is almost a year and suddenly you enter a desire Rabada unusual to go to the North end of the Pure. 's July and I propose to go, but I need a week to go to the Alps with Manuel Anson. I have moved the factory to give me a week more difficult in the time thing (...) . I say impossible, that there the first Sunday after the Alps. I said no, that can come from Catalonia (Anglada group) and "pisárnosla" an argument that would have been nice had it not been for the Catalans were also going to the Alps (...) . Attempt to convince him to delay, says he will seek another partner, it proposes to Navarro happily accepts. Van and finish "