Perhaps more than any other summit, the toponymy of the Mallo Tozal expresses an exact description of what we will find before him, a quick and dirty translation of the Aragonese-without all the nuances that have the terms "Tozal" and "mall" - would come to call this place the "peak of the wall." Other meanings that once was given as "the throne of the devil" or "altar" today are less widespread among the mountaineers, though still used in the brochures for the most romantic expression.
of more or less Herculean appearance depending on the situation of the observer, seems wide from the entrance to the valley and more streamlined as we go upstream Arazas internment, "the great wall welcomes visitors, tourists and mountaineers who come to the valley of Ordesa, overwhelming everyone for being so used to his presence.
In 1953, the great French Pyrenean Robert Ollivier published the second volume of his famous guide to the Pyrenees in which he gives details of the first ascent of Mallo Tozal. In it, without too many technical details about the difficulties of the road, says the escalation made po r Gavín Jorge Antonio José Luis Rodríguez and the impressive south face of Tozal of Mallo on 21 August 1944. This first ascent, which was reported by the same Gavín to Ollivier, soon proved totally unfounded and completely false. In this regard, it is very interesting to read the comment made in 2007 by José Antonio Bescós Mountaineers in the Yearbook of Aragon spent 50 years of self-it-first ascent of the south face of Tozal of Mallo.
Aragon says the veteran climber, "the guide Editóse Mr. Ollivier at the start of the 50 and receiving the first copies of it in circles Mountaineers of Aragon in Zaragoza, the caught a whiff of a story Chinese with regard to these two scales, for although Mr. Perez / Abbeys ( well JA Bescós called Jorge A. Gavin, as explained earlier in this article could not remember his name, but would any of those names sounded ) was remotely known as mountaineering, in any case he could be considered capable of performing a scaled as described. In addition, his companion, whose name escapes me, was not known by anyone who was questioned about the case. Equally all the hikers (very few at that time) who camped on the dates indicated in Ordesa (what ever!) Or made by the massive mountain had not found anyone in their ascents, no one heard the most comment on some activities at least as extraordinary for its time. Indicated completion of the investigation, it was the wise conclusion that our good friend Robert " it had gotten bent " as we say today, but in those glorious years of prudery, prudishness, correction and rationing, it only had not told the truth unseemly. "
In 1953, the great French Pyrenean Robert Ollivier published the second volume of his famous guide to the Pyrenees in which he gives details of the first ascent of Mallo Tozal. In it, without too many technical details about the difficulties of the road, says the escalation made po r Gavín Jorge Antonio José Luis Rodríguez and the impressive south face of Tozal of Mallo on 21 August 1944. This first ascent, which was reported by the same Gavín to Ollivier, soon proved totally unfounded and completely false. In this regard, it is very interesting to read the comment made in 2007 by José Antonio Bescós Mountaineers in the Yearbook of Aragon spent 50 years of self-it-first ascent of the south face of Tozal of Mallo.
Aragon says the veteran climber, "the guide Editóse Mr. Ollivier at the start of the 50 and receiving the first copies of it in circles Mountaineers of Aragon in Zaragoza, the caught a whiff of a story Chinese with regard to these two scales, for although Mr. Perez / Abbeys ( well JA Bescós called Jorge A. Gavin, as explained earlier in this article could not remember his name, but would any of those names sounded ) was remotely known as mountaineering, in any case he could be considered capable of performing a scaled as described. In addition, his companion, whose name escapes me, was not known by anyone who was questioned about the case. Equally all the hikers (very few at that time) who camped on the dates indicated in Ordesa (what ever!) Or made by the massive mountain had not found anyone in their ascents, no one heard the most comment on some activities at least as extraordinary for its time. Indicated completion of the investigation, it was the wise conclusion that our good friend Robert " it had gotten bent " as we say today, but in those glorious years of prudery, prudishness, correction and rationing, it only had not told the truth unseemly. "
phone not only plasma Jorge A. Ollivier Gavin "first." In 1952, as recorded Jesús María Rodríguez Pozo Ordesa in your phone, Paths of Stone, Gavin "an article signed in the journal of the then Federation Pyrenaica Navarra Basque Mountain, which recounted his first ascent in 1944 of the Great Wall . "As noted in the sketch of the guide Ollivier, apparently Gavín noticed more in the fissure Picazo in the fireplace to draw Ravier opening your imagination that never existed.
As curious and mocking note-for her part, of these claims starts without touching the wall Gavín, Christian Ravier Ordesa opened in 2008, along with Elijah and Alex Martin Corpuz, a way to right the Coop Rabada-Navarro, baptizing very humor as "Gavin binoculars" in which the escalation review states that "Ordesa walls are conducive to delusions."
not until 1954 when the first attempt, this real-time to win the attractive south wall. José Santacana long climbs the first of what will be a few years after the Ravier, but looking for the easiest route, avoid the left above the crashes that are presented, achieving in one shot to get more horizontally since this is called "Plaza Catalunya". From here, and if you try to throw some more long vertical reality imposes itself and decide to end the escalation, the attempt now being called "crossing Santacana" and easiest way to access the Plaza de Catalunya and the roads that pass through it.
Barely a year after opening the Gómez-Khan, the first road that ends at a summit in the Tozal. To this end, the climbers who are climbing the path name to ram this, starting to do near the mid-wall, entering from the side Carriata Circus. Although Rabada and Pepe Diaz opened the bottom, now this way almost exclusively performed as a way out as Despiau, the Anglada-Civis or Aliga.
Barely a year after opening the Gómez-Khan, the first road that ends at a summit in the Tozal. To this end, the climbers who are climbing the path name to ram this, starting to do near the mid-wall, entering from the side Carriata Circus. Although Rabada and Pepe Diaz opened the bottom, now this way almost exclusively performed as a way out as Despiau, the Anglada-Civis or Aliga.
Due to the difficulties of this peak is concentrated in south-face the imposing of Tozal mall "- the Gómez-Khan, without taking even a point of its pioneer status, it is considered the first climb Tozal of the Mallo, giving that honor to Ravier.