My Beta Has White Spots On It

The Puro North: in honor of the truth (1 ª part)


" I've been, if memory serves me correctly, some forty years dumb. "This phrase began in 2003 Gregorio Villarig the story of the first attempt Clean the North where he was, along with Alberto Rabada protagonist. It all started following the publication of the book publisher and Navarro Rabada Barrabés, where the authors told the history of the first attempt of this route using as source Article written documentary Rabada for the newsletter n º 60 the Mountaineers of Aragon. Indeed, 43 years after Edil wrote this article Villarig clarified in the yearbook dedicated to the 50 years of the 1 st ascent of Pure certain points exaggerated, inaccurate or directly invented by Rabada, all from the most absolute of affection and no desire for revenge or role.

The blog post Villarig Gregory of the North with Cecilia Buil Puro ( in the article that launched its blog also had this escalation with Toño Carasol ) has led me to remember the history and transcribing Climbing told by the two protagonists, and Rabada Villarig. To clarify the different versions green transcribe what is written by Alberto Rabada in 1960 and blue replica Villarig Gregorio in 2003. What follows are only excerpts of articles, I recommend reading the original and entertained much longer than I can count here.

on previous history that led to Rabada Villarig and the North also Puro this article was published in 2008 Barrabés Technical Papers.

..........

August 30, 1959

Before climbing, being now at trackside, the rope is tied with the knot Edil.
Alberto Rabada " Without much force I can convince my partner to be tied in a knot again I am experiencing "

Villarig Gregorio " is true that the knot, called "Edil" Since then, climbing was released that day. We put him and I both above the "approved" cayéndome, it is not true that I did not know what was the knot, the knot because we had rehearsed many times the workshop of the Avenida de Madrid hanging strings on a wooden beam ceiling " .

..........

After passing the cave of the Pure, Rabada deviates new terrain to reach the North entosta and follow up . The friction of the strings makes them change plans; Rabada Villarig recovered to entosta to mount new session and run better strings and Edil continues even under a belly mounted a meeting where "circumstances." No more problems, recovers Villarig long and starts to throw the second pitch.

AR: "Continued Villarig this second shot over a couple of nails in which put stirrups. Another nail and watch me that, because it will leave for free. So just do it and I have time to hear a slight regret that disturbs the peaceful sleep of a couple of crows Sesto ... the rock of Don Justo "
GV:" did not happen. I leave the meeting to open two or three meters and thinking about the meeting, which I consider poor, desperately looking to put the first nail certainly give us a break " Here Villarig explains his situation: only gets nailed a entosta he found it "a genuine apology" a rare python-wider than long, made by a blacksmith as directed of Rabada and Cintero in which he "put the willies just thinking about hanging on that nail." Villarig follow up without being able to drive anything else and due to the difficulty of the step I get stuck on tiny prey fair game trying to catch the next orange belly. " But there can not be forever, hands get tired and my fingers slip, try again to reach the dam orange but I have shrunk and it is not even touching it. Now I know I'm gonna fall, is a matter of time Aguenta the fingertips that we no longer feel. Notice to my fellow Rabada I go, Mamic voooyyyaaymamica me! The first "I'm leaving" I heard the second part of the sentence seemed a shriek "

..........

continues the story:
AR" I have to ask not what happened since my side I have again to mate with the face explicit enough to allow an extra words can not articulate. I wonder if you have not left the encordaje, which leaves it somewhat dismayed. For my part I'm quite satisfied to see that the only evidence that he lacked the knot has responded well "
GV:" When I realize that I've fallen, I'm with feet apart on the wall, his body erect and I have not made a scratch. Rabada'm under, I look up and the first thing I see is your face with a big smile saying that you did not go so far! and also "you have not left," referring to the disbelief of Rafael (Montaner) which meant that if a drop was left shoulder rope and you fell face down also legs would go. "

Read the second part .

Reviews of Northern Pure here.

Desmume Mac Soulsilver

Riglos "Caving in? The roped Rabada

Cave Lady , Cave Cave Pure and Palomar are perhaps in that order, the most famous caves Riglos. Whoever comes out and see for the first time think it's very optimistic the name "cave" to what is nothing more than a coat or a "cavern", but that's the word also used in other cavities in the vicinity such as the Cave d'you Chitanos (or gypsy) in Agüero or the Caves of the Queen of Vadiello.

The Cyrillic on the basis of direct Puro, the Blanchard between the knife and Frechin, that of Petoste of Cored ... are other caves Mallos produced by the geological characteristics of typical cluster Riglos. Being mere holes on the wall, some nevertheless have a magical aura and fanciful, even though the mystery has not transcended much; Carlos Gutierrez in the book Mystery of Aragon Guide contains the belief that there is a cave in the mesh which is a gateway to another dimension of time, this "cave time" some common area located in the mall the Magdalena, being clearly visible from the trail of small mesh that goes to the source of the Clergy. In any case, those who have gone there after a short climb must not claim to have felt any translation into another era. Editorial: Charlie responds to my request for help on this issue and brings his knowledge. " The story of the door to another dimension and had heard many years ago in a late-night radio, those type fourth millennium, but placed it there (I think) in the Summer Circus, between the Fire and the Ram ... "

The type of rock gives way to a rather narrow, almost" spelunking. " When Jordi Panyella chronicled the rise of the chimney that bears his name, and spoke of the narrows that had to happen, viniéndole to mind the resemblance to the caves. Montaner and Rabada also passed on the penultimate hard time over the cookies to go through the stone built and Rabada He even had to remove clothing in order to advance the Chemequeos Tube in the Way of the dihedral.

However, although I have not been able to locate on the ground, and took quite some time looking and wondering, it seems that there are some potholes in the vicinity of Riglos that in the mid-50's caving aroused little interest among climbers who frequented the mallets. Desgracidamente, caves should not be a big deal and now its location and specifics have been lost or are very difficult to find. Yes it is possible to read maps references "Cuebas carasol ", "O Galocha d'or Tiu "" Cuebas Bera "or" Eagle Cuebas "in the vicinity of the mesh size, including" A crippled Cuebas "near Marcuello Castle, but it appears that none of these caves they refer to something the slightest interest in caving.

The oldest information in the climbers refer to the caving in Riglos found in the tribute they did to Victor facet after his death at the fourth attempt to Puro. As a reminder, Riglos step, his fellow mountaineers of Aragon made a slide show that featured all the activities developed in the climber the mallets; among them the decline held on August 4, 1949 in a pit to a depth of 60 meters.

is curious, however, that a connoisseur of these walls as was Rafael Montaner, does not seem to be aware of the fact of declining Victor Carillo and in an excellent article published in 1957 on the escalating mallets, making an activity for a famous Catalan climbers roped in as the first activity in Riglos caving.

" During Easter 1955, the rope Torras - Nubiola, Barcelona, \u200b\u200bmakes the 3 rd to Pure and inaugurate a new activity Riglos: caving. Descend and explore the chasm near the village, about 20 meters deep, chisels of mud and gravel, also recognizing other caves in nearby mountains "

these two figures are striking. On one hand, assumes that JM Torres and J. Nubiola are the first caving in Riglos, although Montaner undoubtedly knew the history of veneers. On the other hand, surprisingly, also gives information that there were other caves in nearby mountains, but without impinging on them.


And do not stop there caving explorations . Building also Easter, when Montaner relates what happened in 1956, explains that new groups are admitted to the alleged depths rigleras publishing the following comments: " At Easter, a group of Madrid and Barcelona, \u200b\u200bexploring a chasm in the mountains of the Fils which is deep enough for what is normal in conglomerate beds."

As noted, the description of the modest caving activity that was made in the mesh are not only attracted attention by the novelty that it was, but contrary to the detail of the pious in the escalation, are omitted here all kinds of technical details and location of the cavities. In the latter case at least we focus more on shooting and we know that exploration, successful as we read, happened in the mountains of the Fils.

As always, we appreciate contributions to this issue.

My Wife And I Fightevery Day

- Navarro: 50 years of his first track

Excerpt from article published in www.barrabes.com

At the end of the day May 2, 1959 , two young climbers arrive late at night the little town of Riglos. Both are well known among locals and climbers of the mallets, although they were not roped together form has seen so far. One of them, Alberto Rabada , at age 24 already has an enviable mountaineer curriculum, among other activities, has made the first repeat Sola's Aguero Peña the Ravier of the Mallo Tozal and north of the Tower of Marboré, in addition to openings as significant as the normal Puro, the Seron-Miller or Ram Francisco Ramón Abella (better known as Cookie) to the fire. With this, added the third of four openings signed in the Peña.

The other climber is Ernesto Navarro, a year younger and less experienced in the field vertical. However, given a special recognition for his climbing, and that the two leading climbing short years he has had time to open the way Luis Villar to the fire and still make a few repetitions of the pure normal after a long hiatus for having broken a leg in the journey of 5 points Fire. Read

50 anniversary of the first route opened by Rabada-Navarro

Full article in issue 45 of Technical Papers.